(NOT intended to replace a vet, but to let you know certain things about different breeds & a few things that might save your baby's life till you can get to a vet)
Having problems with your pup behaving? Cesar Milan "The Dog Whisperer" may be able to help you. Click here
There is no such thing as the "perfect dog". Dogs are just like us humans...they can have health problems that no one can see in the future. Purebred dogs have the highest health problems. If you are looking for a specific breed...read all you can about that breed and its health problems. Dachshunds can have spinal problems, Poodles can have cataracts, Chihuahuas can have luxating patella's, Yorkies can have liver shunts, Maltese & Dalmatians can be born deaf, Cocker Spaniels can have cherry eye....and the list goes on and on. Dogs can even be Diabetic ! If a breeder does not know of a problem with the parent dogs, then they are not at fault if the puppy you get ends up sick or dies...all they can do is STOP BREEDING THAT PUPPY'S PARENTS (FOREVER)......and, replace the puppy...or refund the money you spent on it. When a breeder keeps breeding a dog they have been told is throwing pups with life threatening problems....they are NOT a good breeder. A mixed breed is usually less likely to have the health problems that a purebred has. Some health problems are not as severe as others. For instance I once owned a dog, when she had a checkup she was found to have a luxating patella which I NEVER knew about...or could tell she had. Small breeds of dogs can and do have this problem, but it is not life threatening...but its a fact of life that anything that breathes can have health problems at some point in its life. The very small dogs some people refer to as a "teacup" (which there is no such thing) can have seizures, low blood sugar ( Hypoglycemia )...and are very fragile...and should not be raised around young children. A 8-12 lb dog is small but not tiny...can be taken for walks, jump in and out of your car...or on your bed....can romp with your kids...I like & recommend this size.
If ever I am told, more than once....that a puppy of mine has a severe life threatening health problem that's genetic or hereditary, the PARENTS STOP BREEDING AT ONCE...and homes are found for them to people who know their condition and are willing to have them as pets only...( they cannot both go to the same home, because if someone breeds them I have failed to stop the problem ). I am a person who could care less about registration papers...but some customers want them and I provide them....thru CKC. I love my dogs for who they are... not for how many champions are in their background. No one registry is better than another...they provide a piece of paper with names on it...but if you are into showing dogs you may feel different than I do. If you have your pet spayed or neutered (which I highly recommend), then the papers are of no value except as a keepsake.
Some registries are too political for me ( I won't mention which ones )...and some registries are no company at all...just people like you and me that come up with a fancy registry name...the papers are coming out of their house...not a company or building ( so you have no guarantee that 5 years from now any thing from that person can be registered ). Some registries will "MAKE" you register your pup thru them, by making the breeder pay for your papers...even if you don't want the papers or don't plan on breeding your pup...I do not think this is fair. Don't let anyone fool you into thinking papers can't be put on a dog that should have never had papers...ALL breeders know the tricks....and this can be done with the BIG name registries. Just because a dog has papers does not always mean a dog is what someone says it is, no matter what registry it is. DNA does NOT LIE. Every pup I sell comes from the parents I say they come from ( and can be backed up thru DNA ). Dogs are truly mans BEST FRIEND. Everyone who knows me knows what my dogs mean to me. I laugh to myself when I hear someone say "my dog is AKC". When you really think about it...what do you have when you have dog papers? (I don't have papers on my human children...are they are still great kids...to me).
If you are considering adopting a puppy, consider how your children will react to this new life in your home. Are your children controlled, taught how to handle a new pup or dog? Children can chase a newborn or young pup or dog and actually terrify it to the point of snapping/biting at your child. I really don't like to have my babies go to a home with very small young children for this reason. I hear stories on the phone all the time about "how well behaved my children are"...but when they arrive at my home it's not quiet like the parent described. I take my babies VERY SERIOUSLY and have poured my heart and soul into the lives that I bring into this world. I will not tolerate animal abuse. I am not into it for the money...I have to charge money because of expenses. It's not cheap raising puppies, but I want every dog lover to have what I could not have as a child. I want every dog lover to know the true meaning of love...and nothing can love you like a dog can.
From time to time I see things or hear things in public that makes my skin crawl...here is a few things:
I want a dog...but my husband "won't let me have one"....or "I have to ask my husband if I can have one" (This one kills me). He won't let you? If you have to "ask him"...chances are he's not a dog loving person...so I don't want my babies going to your home. Dogs know when they aren't loved or wanted...just like humans. I want all my babies to go to fun homes where there are no "hang-ups" of any kind. Where they can feel free to play or run or be themselves....after all...life is short.
My German Shepard just loves to play with my Chihuahua....and never hurts it. Yes, this is possible for awhile....but a large dog can hurt a small one even by not meaning to...and in the end the large dog can kill your Chihuahua on purpose for whatever reason....even though they were friends for a long long time...I have seen it too many times.
I see people taking 6 & 8 week old puppies to public places like ball fields letting all their friends play with it...and putting it on the ground to pick up thousands of germs.
I see people feeding their dogs boiled chicken and rice (because the dog loves it). Duh, wouldn't you rather have steak instead of bologna? Human food is not for dogs...that's why dog food was invented. When the Pancreas is destroyed it cannot be "fixed". There are scientists working day in and day out to prove human food is not good for your dog. I once sold a Chihuahua pup to a girl and gave her a sample of puppy food (enough to last at least 4 days)...when that food ran out instead of buying more, she reached in the pantry and grabbed a can of "corned beef hash". The next day she called me crying and said her vet bill was almost 600.00 and the dog was barely alive . The dog recovered but it's health was never good after that. Well, you say..."my Aunt Martha's dog eat table food all it's 14 years and was just fine". I say that is possible. I also say a person who smokes or drinks can outlive someone who doesn't...but how many do??? A dogs body cannot tolerate the amount of fat that a humans body can...plain and simple don't feed your dog human food...EVER!
I hear this one a million times a year. When I got the puppy home, it wouldn't eat the dog food you gave me...or when I got the pup home it wouldn't eat dog food...it wanted Vienna sausage. Strange the pup eat the entire time at my home...puppy food. "It wanted Vienna sausage"?????? Are you insane? Do I look that stupid to you? Give me a break...my puppies ( and grown dogs) wouldn't know what a Vienna sausage was if I dangled in it front of their noses. Would they eat one...probably...but they have a very strict mommy that will not allow it...why? because I love them tooooo much to lose them!!!
My dog ran out the door before I could grab him and was killed by a car. I can't count the times I have heard this one. A vet once told me that a male dog can smell a female dog in heat 3 blocks away. If your dog has been neutered before he knows what sex is...he will never know. He won't care about the lady down the street.
Pet stores who let hundreds of people handle all the puppies. These people who are handling the pups...are the same people who didn't have anything better to do than ride out to a run down kennel where parvo was everywhere...then went to see the puppies at the pet stores. You come along and buy one of the pups that were handled only to find out a week later that your baby has parvo....how do you think it has it??? Wouldn't you rather get a pup that's never been handled by anyone other than the breeder? That's never had its feet on the floor or ground, around germs while it's vaccines were taking place? That's been confined to a clean "public restricted" area free of the public's germs?
EMERGENCY SITUATIONS THAT NEED IMMEDIATE VET CARE
Difficulty breathing: noisy respiration, blue tongue, gasping for breath
Bee stings on throat area
Bleeding that does not stop from any part of the body. Apply pressure with a clean cloth and go!
Severe Bleeding:
Place gauze over the wound and apply direct pressure using your hands for 5 minutes, recheck, and continue applying pressure until bleeding stops or you've reached the vet. Do not use a tourniquet, as they are dangerous. Cold packs over oozing wounds can help reduce swelling and bleeding. Take your pet to the vet immediately.
Bloated or distended abdomen or swollen or painful abdomen with or without vomiting
Inability to urinate or move bowels but continues to try or has bloody stool or urine or painful defecation or urination
Heatstroke: heavy panting, extreme weakness, body temperature about 104 degrees
Inability to deliver puppies or kittens, labor contractions for longer than one hour or more than 15 minutes of labor with the fetus or membrane showing.
Loss of balance or consciousness or seizure, including: tremors, coma, staggering, convulsions, sudden blindness, tilting of the head, biting at imaginary objects, sudden changes in disposition such as unusual withdrawal or out-of-character aggressiveness
Pain, severe or continuous
Major trauma, injury, or shock from falls, vehicle accidents, wounds, cuts, broken bones. Signs to look for: weakness, collapse, shallow breathing, rapid heartbeat, bewildered appearance, dilated pupils
Ingested poison. Bring the container of the product or a list of ingredients if you have it
Penetrating wounds anywhere on the body, but especially in the chest or abdomen
Vomiting or diarrhea with blood or violent episodes
Lameness and cannot bear any weight on the leg
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OVER THE COUNTER MEDICATIONS YOU CAN GIVE YOUR DOG: "ASK YOUR VET"...ABOUT THIS BEFORE YOU THINK ABOUT GIVING THESE TO YOUR DOG!!!
Buffered Aspirin..................................................For Dogs Only. Pan relief, anti-inflammatory....................................................................Call your vet for dosage
Baby Aspirin .......................................................For Dogs Only. Pan relief, anti-inflammatory....................................................................Call your vet for dosage
Benedryl..............................................................Treat allergies, itching, reaction to insect stings, etc......................................................Call your vet for dosage
Dramamine......................................... Not for animals with glacoma or bladder problems. Reduces car sickness........................... Call your vet for dosage
Pepto-Bismol....................................................For dogs only. Relive vomiting or stomach gas, diarrhea.............................................. Call your vet for dosage
Hydrogen Peroxide 3%........................To induce vomiting after accidental ingestion of a poison...................................................... Call your vet for dosage
Mineral Oil...........................................................................Eliminate constipation............................................................................................. Call your vet for dosage
Acetaminophen, Tylenol, Ibuprofen, Moltrin, Nuprin, Aleve........................................NEVER GIVE TO ANIMALS!!
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Parvo is a virus, and it is very deadly. It can be transmitted from clothes, hands and shoes into my home...therefore I do not let people handle my babies, this is for their protection as well as my babies. I have never had an outbreak of Parvo at my kennel...and do not want it. Ever been to a pet shop where everyone handles the pups, puts them down on the floor to "see them play" ? Do you really want a pup who has be handled by hundreds of people, then you come along and buy it only to find out it has Parvo? Our pups are raised into a small building we call the "Nursery"...no one is allowed in there except my husband and myself. Hospitals do not let the public in their nursery...there's a reason for it ( GERMS ). You cannot "see" the Parvo germ, but its most everywhere. In can be found in feces in your grocery store parking lot, you can be the very one who tracks it into your home. It can be found in your vets office or pet stores who sell pet products ( where pets are allowed to go in ). I always tell my customers, please wait until your baby has had all its vaccines before you start putting it outside to potty train it, or take it for a walk. A puppy can be trained indoors on Weewee pads or newspapers until it gets big enough to go down steps to go outside (and after it's had all it's vaccines). Parvo is probably the #1 fear of ALL dog owners
PARVOVIRUS
Parvo is a virus that is easily picked up and performs a series of life cycles. This nasty virus can easily survive it's enviroment and contamenate again and again with out careful prevention. There are many options you can give when trying to "cure" a puppy of this virus.
The virus is transmitted by oral ingestion of viral contaminated feces. Feces can contaminate the enviroment. This means even walking from one yard to the next with deep tread on boots (with dirt) can transport parvo. Thus infecting the enviroment of the next yard. It takes only a single lick of their fur, eating off the ground, or simply eating the stool for the dog to become infected with parvo.
Upon ingestion by the new host it infects local lymph nodes, quickly multiplies and then via the blood moves to the small intestine where signs of the disease begin in approximately 5-6 days. The virus is extremely deleterious to the lining (mucosa) of the small intestine. The surface of the mucosa is stripped away upsetting crucial barriers and interfering with normal balance of digestive enzyme secretion and nutrient absorption. Additionaly, the normal bacterial flora of the small intestine which aid in digestion are now exposed to ulcerated mucosa, providing a direct route into the blood stream. Fluid loss from both vomiting and diarrhea is dramatic and dehydration ensues. In severe cases of blood lose the dog dies from anemia before dieing of Parvo.
Possible Anemia can form causing the situation to worsen and less likely to resolve. Anemia is the lose of red blood cells and blood content. Anemia can cause weakness, loss of appetite, low immune system, and death from it alone in severe cases. It can cause infection if the puppy starts to win the battle against Parvo and lives longer than a few days allowing the bacteria to mature in the intestine and infect the blood stream. A secondary antibiotic is well worth while if the puppy appears to be recovering from the Parvo.
The onslaught of bacteria and toxins into the blood will ultimately cause death. Precipitous drops in white blood cell (WBC) counts are common and relate directly to the prognosis and outcome of the infection. Ominous drops in white blood cells are attributed to overwhelming degradation of WBC¹s and the direct depressive viral effect on WBC production in the bone marrow. Dogs that survive Parvo tend to have gritty teeth and weaker bones that tend to break very easily from the depression of WBC in that period of time. So even though the dog has gained his nutritional status back as an adult, think twice before hunting with a mouthy one, for his physical status may never be the same.
The incidence of the disease is highest in young dogs and tends to start after the puppy has lost its maternal protection passed on at birth with the first milk (colostrum). This is why it is important not to go by the puppies age for shots, but to go Any age can be infected but, most dogs are infected between the ages of 2-6 months when maternal antibody decreases below a protective level in the puppy. Signs of the disease usually are mild to nonexistent. However, a full blown case of parvovirus untreated can easily be fatal. Certain breeds seem to be more sensitive to the disease; possibly related to their immune system. Generally, a diagnosis is made on the signs of the disease and falling white blood cell counts. Good rapid diagnostic tests are also available at veterinary clinics. Additionally, the virus can be found in the feces by commercial labs using electron microscopy.
Even after the host has appeared cured from this virus, the virus may linger around the enviromenet to infect another host. The virus is extremely hardy and survives for long periods outside its host. The virus will live in the environment up to 6 months and survives winter nicely under a blanket of snow where the temperature is usually around 25-28 degrees F. Extremely cold temperatures prior to snow fall will kill the virus. Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is the only effective disinfecting agent.
Treatment for the disease is primarily supportive although recently immunotherapy has become important. Historically, dogs were supported by aggressive intravenous fluid therapy to combat hydration and antibiotics given to reduce secondary bacterial infection. Food is withheld until vomiting has ceased. Many veterinarians employ antiemetics to lessen the signs and aid in the control of dehydration. Blood transfusions have been employed to increase the level of globulins, red blood cells and serum protein being lost via the bowel ¹s bloody diarrhea. Most recently, antitoxins and antiparvo serum are showing results. With hospitalization and vigorous support most dogs will survive severe cases of parvo virus. Early detection and aggressive therapy are the key to success.
Prevention of parvo virus is by vaccination. Modified live vaccines are the most effective and continue to be safe. Producing and effective level of protection requires frequent vaccination starting at 8 weeks of age and repeating every 3-4 weeks until the puppy is sixteen weeks old. Some investigators have suggested extending the protocol until 20-26 weeks because of the persistence of maternal antibody in the puppy which neutralizes the vaccine. Currently, annual revaccination is recommended. Recently, it has been suggested that repeated annual vaccination may also produce persistent antibody interference to the vaccination. After the initial puppy series and first annual revaccination, boosters in the future may be recommended triennial or less frequent. A change in vaccine protocol, until further research is done, is not recommended.
Pancreatitis
This is perhaps the most important of the reasons not to feed your pet human food: the fat content tends to be so high that your animal runs the risk of developing pancreatitis, or inflammation of the pancreas. This is a potentially lethal condition and not easily treatable. Digestive enzymes produced in the pancreas in an inactive state are activated prematurely and begin to digest the pancreatic organ itself. Unlike conditions such as obesity and choking (which you can observe), your pet could be sick with pancreatitis without your knowing. The symptoms, when they manifest, mimic other, often less threatening digestive disorders. The worst foods -- those most like to cause pancreatic problems -- are cheeses and pork products. If your dog were to eat a whole bowl of cheese dip, for instance, it is guaranteed to develop pancreatitis. A pet's digestive system, while perhaps geared towards eating rodents and feathers and such as we could never digest, is not suited to processing the high volumes of fat which we humans can deal with. Would your puppy love a bowl of cheese dip? You bet. Could it kill him? Unfortunately, the answer is yes.
Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog's reach.
Toxic People Foods
Mushrooms- abdominal pain, drooling, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting diarhea, convulsions, coma, death
Coffee/Cocoa- staggering, laboured breathing, vomiting, diarhea, abdominal pain, tremours, fever, heart rate increase, arrythmia, seizures, coma, death
Raisins Both grapes and raisins (raisins are dried grapes) can cause diarrhea, vomiting,, and kidney failure.
Onions A chemical in onions can damage a dogs� blood cells and can cause anemia. One small whole onion could very well be fatal.
Macadamia Nuts Never leave these exotic nuts lying around your house. A compound in them could leave your dog with temporary paralysis in his hind legs.
Sugarless gum A dog will eat gum every chance he gets. Anything with xylitol, a sugar alcohol can cause a rapid drop in blood sugar in dogs which can be deadly.
Chocolate contains a caffeine-like substance that can be toxic to dogs if to much is consumed. The substance is called obromine which is toxic to dogs. Baking chocolate and dark chocolate is especially dangerous. While it usually takes a somewhat large amount of chocolate to kill a dog, poisoning and death does occur with smaller amounts ingested. Signs of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, increased urination, and increased activity. This can progress to seizures and unusual heart rhythms. Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate. The darker the chocolate, the worse the effect will be. Some symptoms to watch for are excited behavior, increased urination, muscle tremors, seizures and a rapid heart rate. My friends puppy got into a box of "valentine chocolate". She panicked and called the vet...he told her to pour some peroxide down the pups throat to make the pup vomit to save it's life...it worked!......but ask your vet about this procedure before you think of doing it.
OTHER THINGS THAT CAN KILL YOUR BABY........................
Watch Batteries - If your dog ingests a watch battery, it can cause a potentially fatal ulceration in the stomach within 12 hours. All other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs as well. Symptoms of toxicity include drooling, lack of appetite, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has ingested a watch battery, contact your vet immediately.
Bleach- As you might imagine, household bleach is toxic to dogs. Keep all products containing bleach out of your dog's reach. Symptoms of bleach poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and abdominal pain. Do NOT induce vomiting if you suspect your dog has ingested bleach and contact your veterinarian immediately.
Moth Balls -Moth balls are very dangerous to dogs. They contain an insecticide that causes central nervous system excitement and seizures. When metabolized, ingestion of moth balls can lead to liver failure. Symptoms of poisoning by moth balls include vomiting and seizures. If your dog has consumed moth balls, do NOT induce vomiting. Seek veterinary care immediately.
Tylenol - As little as two regular strength Tylenol tablets can kill a small dog. Dogs lack the proper liver enzymes to break down acetaminophen. Signs of toxicity include drooling, lethargy, and abdominal pain. If you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol, call your veterinarian immediately.
Antifreeze -Many people do not realize it, but common antifreeze kills many pets each year. It smells and tastes very sweet to your dog and is very appealing to him. Ethylene glycol is toxic however, and each winter, many animals are killed by it. Symptoms of toxicity include seizures, vomiting, stumbling and lethargy leading to kidney failure. Make sure to keep your antifreeze out of your dog's reach. If you suspect that your dog has ingested antifreeze, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Fabric Softeners and other detergents: All sorts of household detergents are toxic to dogs at one level or another, but fabric softeners fall into the highly toxic category. Signs of toxicity include vomiting, lethargy, burns to the mouth, drooling, muscle weakness, and even coma. Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog has ingested any detergent. Contact your veterinarian immediately.
Mouthwash- can contain boric acid which is highly toxic to dogs. Symptoms of poisoning by mouthwash include vomiting, drooling, seizures, and coma. You should take your dog to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect poisoning by mouthwash or other household item containing boric acid like contact lens solution or denture cleaner.
Peach Pits - With most fruits, the pits and the seeds are toxic to dogs. Signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has eaten a peach pit or the pit or seeds of any fruit, take him to the veterinarian immediately.
Household Plants - Many common and popular household plants are highly toxic to dogs. A partial list of toxic plants includes poinsettias, lilies, ferns, devil's ivy, aloe, and ivy. Symptoms of poisoning due to ingestion of toxic plants include vomiting and central nervous system excitement. Many of these plants are fatal if ingested. Please contact your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten a toxic houseplant.
Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog's reach.
With diligence on our part, we can help prevent our dogs from getting into substances that are toxic to them. Many veterinary school websites offer lists of things that are toxic to dogs and what you should do if your dog ingests such things. As always, if you think your dog may have eaten something dangerous, contact your veterinarian immediately or take your dog to the closest emergency clinic.
Some of the above things listed come from Dog Article .........courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com
...Fleas...
This information may seem a little verbose, but to control fleas you must understand them.
Fleas are blood sucking parasites which spend 95% of their adult life on your pet. As many as 2000 eggs can be laid by the adult female flea within a few weeks. Eggs are laid on the pet, then they fall off into the carpet, grass, or similar areas. Fleas generally do not live for more than a few months, but reproduce quickly. A blood meal is required prior to egg laying. Fleas generally cannot live long without a blood meal, which means you will not find many adult fleas outside unless the pets stay outside to provide a source of blood. The adult flea comprises only 5% of the entire flea life cycle. Since the adult is the only one we see, imagine how many immature stages are in our house or yards that comprise the other 95%. Eighty five per cent of the immature stages are eggs and larvae. The other 10% is composed of the pupae which is much like a cocoon and is resistant to insecticides.
Most people concentrate on what they see, which is natural of course, but controlling only 5% of the total flea population will never get us anywhere. The solution to flea control is to concentrate on the eggs and larval stages before they develop the cocoon or pupae. The eggs and larvae need the correct amount of humidity, sunlight, and food source to survive. These facts help us to decide where these flea stages may hide. For instance, outside flea eggs and larvae can be found in the shaded, cooler areas. Examples are under tree limbs, bushes, dog pens, under decks ,etc. These immature stages generally cannot complete their development out in the sunny areas of your yard, so there is not point in using flea products in the middle of the sunny yard.
In the house, flea larvae and pupae will be deep in your carpet or just under the edge of furniture, not more than a few inches out of the light. Concentrating on flea control in carpeted areas is the most productive for indoor control. Also it is very important to use flea products on rugs or door mats (indoor and outdoor) where flea eggs may be deposited as the pets sits or stands on the rug.
If you see or feel fleas on you, they are usually the pre-emerging fleas which are the ones coming out of the pupae. Immature fleas can stay in the pupae stage for months until all the right conditions enable them to break out of their cocoon. Young fleas can be hopping and sucking blood within minutes after hatching out of the pupae stage. A common occurrence is when everyone goes on vacation for a few days to weeks then comes back to a warm house only to find that the house is infested with fleas. Actually what happens is that the vibration of people walking around triggers the hatching of the pupae. Usually when people see fleas on themselves it is the pre-emerging flea that has not found your dog or cat. Remember that fleas live most of their life on our pets, they prefer pets over us, so if we find fleas on us, we can believe that we really have problems with immature fleas, eggs, larvae, and pupae. Just killing the adult flea will not solve the problem.
It is also important to remember that not seeing fleas on your pet does not rule them out. We know that cats can groom as many as 75% of the fleas off their body in one day. Sometimes you can see flea dirt, which looks like small curled black specks. This flea dirt is actually flea waste material and is composed primarily of dried blood. When pets are washed they can actually have so much "flea dirt" on them that it may seem as if the pet is bleeding due to the dissolving dried blood.
Products that control fleas are many and varied. Most contact kill products contain pyrethrins or permethrin chemicals. These chemicals are commonly found in pet flea shampoos, mousse products, some dips, and many flea sprays. These products usually do not work but a few minutes and long lasting activity into the next day is poor to none. The best way to control fleas is to use an adulticide ( products that kill adult fleas) and an IGR or insect growth regulator. These products not only kill the adult flea but also prevent the development of eggs into larvae and finally into pupae. Veterinarians are very knowledgeable about fleas and they should be consulted with questions concerning the effectiveness and safety of all flea products.
Some of the newer products to be available to veterinarians for the use on pets have been very effective at not only killing adults fleas but slowing the development of the life cycle. One such product is a monthly pill for dogs and an oral liquid for cats. Promises are that there will soon be an injectable product that will last for six months to help control fleas. Infomercials have also made us aware of a new product that is applied on the skin once a month to dogs and cats. This products is said to kill 95% of the fleas within 24 hours. Another spray product will kill fleas for three months and ticks for one month with just one application. The spray can also be used on cats but will only last for one month on fleas.
I use FRONTLINE SPRAY.
Ticks
Ticks are very common in south Georgia. The most common ticks found in that area are the Deer Tick, Brown Dog Tick, and American Dog Tick. Ticks can be found almost anywhere, but primarily in grass, woods, or bushy areas. You generally do not see the tick when they crawl onto you or your pet but soon the tick has imbedded its mouth parts into your skin and becomes firmly attached until it is removed.
Dogs, cats, and humans are commonly affected by ticks. Since dogs frequent the areas tick live, they are the most affected. Ticks attach themselves to the skin in pursuit of a blood meal. Late spring, summer, and early fall are the times of the year we see most tick infestations. Some ticks can live up to two years, survive temperatures below freezing and lay up to 5,000 eggs.
Ticks are important not only to dogs and cats but to humans as well, for ticks can transmit diseases that can be harmful or even fatal to pets and humans. The most common tick transmitted diseases in our area are Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Canine Ehrlichiosis, Ehrlichiosis in Humans, and Human Granulocytic Ehrlichosis. By far the most common condition seen in our area is Tick Paralysis. Some dogs are especially sensitive to a toxin (poison) found in the saliva of the tick. This toxin paralyzes the nervous system to the point that the dog can no longer walk. Most cases are treatable and recovery is usually uneventful. However, in some cases the dogs become over heated due to their inability to get out of the sun, or can be injured if near the road. Deaths have been seen as an indirect cause from Tick Paralysis.
Ticks are difficult to kill and many products that claim to have an effect on ticks do an ineffective job. Special tick collars, sprays and topically applied chemicals are used to control ticks. Before using any product against ticks it is best to consult our office or call your regular veterinarian for specific instructions.
Since humans can also get diseases from ticks it is best not to remove the tick with you bare fingers. The use of tweezers or special inexpensive tick removal devices are the best way to remove ticks. Removing ticks incompletely may allow portions of the mouth parts or head of the tick to remain attached to the skin. Infections and scar tissue that may never go away can be the result of ineffective tick removal.
Spaying & Neutering
If you are a responsible caring dog owner, there are many very good reasons to consider spaying and neutering your dog(s), and very few good reasons not to.
Pyometra
Pyometra is the most serious uterine infection that a female dog can contract. It is potentially life-threatening. The serious complications caused by pyometra cause most medical professionals to expect morbidity and mortality despite appropriate treatment.
Most people think that bacteria originating in the uterus is the cause of pyometra. Actually hormonal responses change the environment in the uterus. The hormone progesterone stimulates the increase of secretions in the endometrial glands. The accumulated fluid in the uterus provides a wonderful media for bacterial growth. The environmental change in the uterus may be caused by a hormonal imbalance, retained placenta, or occur 2-3 weeks after the beginning of the estrus cycle, during breeding, or during the whelping process. Bacteria colonizes the fluid-filled uterus. The result is the development of pyometra. The bacterial invasion is thought to originate from bacteria in the vagina.
Some sources believe that the condition is most prevalent four to six weeks after estrus. It seems to be more common in older female (over 5 years) but there are cases that have been recorded in females contracting pyometra after their very first estrus. Close observation of the bitch during the two month period after she has been in heat seems to be wise.
Pyometra is classified as open or closed infection. Open pyometra is usually easier to diagnose. There will be evidence of discharge from the vulva that MAY appear like blood-tinged pus. There may or may not be odor. A female with a closed infection may be near septic shock before the symptoms are obvious. She may really be like a dead dog walking. A terrible description but very true!
SIGNS OF PYOMETRA:
LETHARGY
LACK OF APPETITE
DRINKING AND URINATING EXCESSIVELY
VOMITING
DEHYDRATION
FEVER(20 % OF CASES)
SHOCK
ABDOMINAL DISTENTION AND/OR TENDERNESS
I recommend that a female be spayed for this reason.
Housebreaking & Crate Training
A rule of thumb about size if you're using the crate for housetraining: the crate should only be big enough for the dog to comfortably stand up and turn around in. You don't want the crate so big that the dog will mess at one end and sleep at the other. For large-sized breeds that will continue to grow substantially, you may need to buy a larger size later on if you intend for your dog to continue using the crate after it is housetrained. (If you already have bought the size crate you think your dog will fit into when grown...and it's too large for your puppy now....just put a plastic container in the back of the box (or stuffed animal or pillow) so that puppy only has sleeping room. When pup is finally grown (or housebroken) you can remove the plastic container, animal or pillow). I tell my customers to get a larger one ...it's always better to get the larger one...than one that's too small.
I recommend the 26" x 18 1/2 x 16" size
Crate training is one of the most efficient and effective ways to train a dog. The single most important aspect of dog and puppy training is that you reward and praise your dog or puppy each and every time she does the right thing. For example: praise her when she chews her own toys instead of the couch or eliminates outside instead of in the house. The more time you spend with your puppy or dog, the quicker and easier it will be to train her. ( the more toys your puppy has, decreases the chances of things that belong to YOU being chewed up)
The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits.
It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your dog is housetrained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere. Confine her to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or utility room that has water/stain resistant floors. Confinement is NOT crate training.
What is Crate Training? Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far more important aspect of crate training.
If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released, i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area, ( the wire cage (below) is excellent for when you are NOT home...pup can see out and has plenty of room to play in while you are gone). The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home, (night-time is what I use my crate for). Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents During Training If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to develop bladder and bowel control.
It's best to check with your vet before giving any human medication to pets.
If your dog is killing off the grass with its wee, feed it cooked mashed pumpkin, it takes some of the acid out of the wee which is causing the dead patches.
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Anemia:
Feeding your pet foods high in iron and B vitamins will help this problem. A serving of liver once a day is sufficient: 1 oz. for cats, 2 oz. for small dogs, 3 oz. for medium dogs, 4 oz. for large dogs.
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Animals In Heat:
Your pet's affectionate (and sometimes annoying) actions are demands for attention, so give them more than usual. The strong smell of Vicks VapoRub ointment may help keep roaming males away: rub a little in the fur around the vagina on females and above the nose on males. Keep the windows closed; a male cat can smell a female in heat a mile away, while a dog's range is about three miles. Get your pet spayed/neutered.
If you are planning on breeding your female, never bathe her until the ties have taken place. Washing the scent away confuses the male to the point that he won't breed....the smell has to be there.
Dog in heat, dripping blood on bedclothes? Soak bedclothes, sheets or whatever, in Peroxide...WORKS WONDERS!!! (also works on human blood stains & other stains)...I always keep a spray bottle of this in my laundry room.
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Arthritis:
For overweight pets, losing weight will help lighten the load on those achy joints. A 20 minute walk several times a day can reduce the progression of arthritis. If it's cold outside, let them sleep inside. Make sure they are provided with soft bedding to reduce discomfort. Moist heat applied for 20 minutes twice a day can be a great comfort.
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Artificial Respiration and CPR
Artificial Respiration
To start your dog to breathing again you will need to do mouth-to-nose respiration. The dog's mouth should be sealed tightly closed using two hands, then the person's mouth should be placed firmly around the dog's nose. With gentle blowing into the nose for several seconds eight to ten times per minute, the dog may begin to breathe on it's own.
Once the dog starts breathing you should get the animal to your veterinarian.
CPR
If your dog's not breathing and it's heart is not beating, you will want to try CPR.
CPR is a combination of heart massage and artificial respiration.
The dog should be put on it's right side on a hard surface. The animal's airway should be cleared by pulling out her tongue and checking inside her mouth and throat before beginning.
First, mouth-to-nose resuscitation should be performed. (see above)
If there is still no heartbeat, heart message can be performed. A dog's heart is located in the chest just behind her front legs.
With pressure appropriate for the dog's size, the heels of both hands should compress the dog's chest and then release it. This should be repeated rapidly, six to ten times, then mouth-to-nose resuscitation repeated.
If no pulse is felt the process may be repeated, but if no positive results are seen after about ten minutes the process is probably not going to work.
If possible while performing the CPR you should have someone trying to obtain veterinary help.
Asthma:
Keep pets with asthma free of excess weight; overweight animals have a harder time breathing. Use a humidifier; dry air irritates the airway. If you, the owner, smokes, stop! Keep them indoors during pollen season. For cats, use a dust-free kitty litter.
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Bad Breath:
A foul odor coming from your pet's mouth is a sign of plaque. Prevent this by brushing your pets teeth, feeding them a raw turkey neck or raw carrots; don't feed them canned food or table scraps, and get them a rope to play with. Your vet can also thoroughly clean your pet's teeth (some vets put your dog to sleep to do this.....I wont let this be done to my dogs).
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BATH
Add a few drops of vinegar to your dogs� bath water. This will keep his coat smelling sweet. No more bad smells or unhygienic odor. This is an easy and effective home remedy for a common problem.
Too much bathing won't suit your dog
The only time to bathe your dog is when he's dirty, or on the advice of your veterinary . The ideal time to bathe your dog is every 6-8 weeks. Overdo it and you'll strip his coat of all the natural oils that protect him against the cold and wet. Only bathe him in fine weather or indoors to avoid the cold ....( you can use a mild human shampoo). NEVER use a domestic detergent or disinfectant, as this will harm his skin. Scented baby wipes are a great way of cleaning your puppy/dog without drying out the skin from too much bathing ! Also, if your dog has been outside and comes back in with that "doggy smell"...there are several colognes made just for your pet. A fabric dryer sheet rubbed over your dogs body will also take away that "doggy scent". That "doggy smell" is the actual scent of the dirt in your yard. After giving you dog a bath clean it's ears out with alcohol on q-tips to remove and water left in ears.
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Broken Bones:
Immobilize your pet while holding him still and place him on a board, car floor mat, or a folded blanket. Do not attempt to bandage or splint broken limbs as you can cause more damage. Take your pet to the vet immediately.
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CATS
Cats in trees, will more than likely come down on their own. Leave them alone to make their way down. Give them an entire day to do so. Tempt them with their favorite strong-smelling food. If the cat is injured, wearing a leash that could choke them, or hasn't come down in a day, you need to climb up and get them, whether up the tree itself, or with a ladder. Grab them by the skin on the back of the neck and make your first attempt at reaching them a good one - they may flee further up the tree. The Human Society may be able to assist you if you are not able to reach the cat yourself.
Cats in the house? And refuse to use a litter box? But like the carpet better? Here is a trick I learned and it works. Keeps Kitty from using the carpet as a litter box.
Place long stips of heavy duty aluminum foil on areas cleaned throughly where kitty has marked it's spot.
The noise of the foil turns kitty away. Tin foil is also good for keeping/training kitty not to jump on counters or particular furniture.
How to keep your cats from using your inside floor plants as a litter box.
I had a problem with my cat using my inside plants as a litter box. Didn't matter that the litter box was clean, the cat just wanted to go in my plants, getting dirt all over the floor and making a huge mess. Not to mention that my plants suffered from it.
Put tin foil on top of the dirt around the plant/tree. make sure you cover all of the dirt that you can see or get to. Leave just enough room so you can still water the plant. This worked 100% for me. My cat stopped using my plants as a litter box and finally my inside banana trees started growing.
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Car Sickness:
Most animals travel best on an empty stomach, so pick up their food 6-8 hours before travel. However, some pets prefer to have a small amount of food in their stomachs. See what works best for your animal. Other ways to reduce sickness includes letting them sit in the front seat, allowing them to look out the windows, and cracking the windows to allow fresh air to flow inside the vehicle. Most of the time after 4-5 short trips a dog gets used to riding.....
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CHEWING FURNITURE
To deter a puppy from chewing furniture legs, wipe the legs with a little clove oil. The puppy will stop chewing them. The furniture will stay safe and sound while the puppy learns to use something else.
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Choking:
Open your pet's mouth to see if you can visualize the object and remove it. If you are unsuccessful, take your pet to the vet immediately. If your pet is not breathing and you can't find what's obstructing the air passage, try the Heimlich maneuver: Hold your pet against you and clasp your hand around his upper abdomen OR place your pet on their side, on the floor and put one of your hands on top of the other so that the bottom hand is just below the rib cage. Push or lift upward to dislodge the object.
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CONSTIPATION
If constipation is mild, not associated with other symptoms and doesn't last for 48 hours here are a few things you can do.
1.Feed your dog dry dog food. Dry dog food has more bulk than canned dog foods.
2.Water and bran (up to 5 tablespoons daily) added to the food may help.
3.You can try commercial preparations containing psylluim; (such as Metamucil) they are designed for humans and are sold in drugstores.
Metamucil dosage: 1/2 teaspoon twice a day to small pets and about 2 teaspoons twice a day to large dogs. Try mixing it with a small portion of canned food. Give your pet access to plenty of water.
4.Mix a tablespoon or two of canned pumpkin with your dogs pet food for several days or until the constipation has ended.
5.Milk will sometimes relieve constipation. Give 1/8 cup twice a day to small dogs and 1/2 cup twice a day to larger dogs.
6.Mineral oil (1 tablespoon per 10 pounds) will sometimes relieve more severe constipation. Do not use this all of the time as mineral oil will interfer with the absorption of oil-soluable vitamins.
Mineral oil should only be put in food and not forced orally.
If your dog has reaccuring bouts of constipation take the dog to your veterinarian.
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Coprophagy (Stool Eating)
You should let a young dog know that coprophagy is not acceptable by voicing "no" in a firm and disgusted manner.
While working to change the behaviour, it is critical that the dog not have the opportunity to eat stool when unsupervised and you'll need to clean up the animal's stool immediately after he or she defecates.
1.Dietary changes may help. Allowing free access to food, adding good quality proteins such as eggs and cottage cheese.
2.Your dog could (BUT NOT A FACT) be lacking certain vitamins or minerals in their diet. Try adding a multivitamin to his/her food.
....SOME DOGS WILL DO THIS NO MATTER WHAT FOOD THEY EAT.
3.Adding the enzyme papain to the food will also sometimes prevent coprophagy. This can be done at home by sprinkling meat tenderizer containing papain on food.
4.Try sprinkling the waste with cayenne pepper. This will take the fun out of eating waste. Or better yet if you are able to clean up after your pet immediately after a bowel movement this will remove the temptation.
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Diarrhea:
Ensure your pet is drinking enough fluids. In addition to their water bowl, a bowl of Gatorade� will further help. Stop feeding for 24 hours from the onset of the diarrhea. When your pet is ready to eat again, try 2 parts cooked white rice mixed with 1 part boiled hamburger or skinless white meat chicken, feeding small amounts every 4 hours for 2 days. Slowly introduce their regular food back into the diet. If the diarrhea doesn't subside, seek the advise of your veterinarian. It may be caused by intestinal parasites or something more serious.
Do not feed your dog for twelve to twenty-four hours following a bout of diarrhea. Then you can offer a very small amount of soft, bland food such as cooked rice and skinless chicken breast, pasta, or potatoes mixed with low-fat cottage cheese (9-to1 ratio). Feed only small meals three or four times a day. Make the return to normal food a normal diet gradually over about a week's time by mixing in small quantities of the normal food with the bland diet.
Withholding food for 24 hours from very small dogs or puppies may lead to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and is dangerous. In this instance, withhold food for several hours and administer small amounts of honey, Karo syrup, or sugar water frequently during the period of food withdrawal.
You can give your dog Kaopectate, one teaspoon each ten pounds of weight every four hours.
You can also give these medications-
Pepto-Bismol- 1/4 teaspoonful per ten pounds of body weight every 6-8 hours.
Immodium- 0.5 milligrams per 10 pounds of body weight every six to eight hours.
If the diarrhea has not cleared up in 48 hours you will need to seek treatment for your dog from your veterinarian. Persistent or bloody diarrhea are the signs of serious illnesses and can quickly lead to death.
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Dry Skin and Dander It's best to check with your vet before giving any human medication to pets.
Dry Skin and Dander
1. You can use diluted Murphy's soap to bathe your dog if your dog suffers from dry skin, dander or even some allergies. The Murphy's soap will clean your dog as well as soothe it's skin. Always be sure to rinse the dog well.
2. If you suspect a deficiency of essential fatty acids you can supplement the diet with 1 teaspoon to 1 1/2 teaspoons (no more) per pound of dry food or poulty drippings, lard, bacon fat, or vegetable oil (safflower, corn, soybean, or cottonseed oil are good).
Canned foods containing 2%-3.5% fat can have fat added at about 1 tablespoon per pound can. Soft or moist foods containing more than 6% fat should not have fat added.
Fat should only supply 5%-20% of the diet's calories. Do not increase the fat content so that fat supplies more than 40% of the daily caloric requirment as this may induce other nutritional deficiences by lower total food consumption, so beware.
Skin improvement is usually seen in about 1-2 months.
Primary (idiopathic) Seborrhea (dog's equivalent of dandruff)
This can be controlled (not cured) by frequent, regular bathing every 3 to 7 days with speical medicated shampoos that contain ingredients such as antiseptics, salicylic acid, coal tar and sulfur. In general, dry scales respond best to a mild, hypoallergenic, emollient shampoo followed by an emollient rinse. (example: bath oil, one capful to 1-2 quarts of water. ) Greasy types are best managed with products containing antiseptic degreasers such as benzoyl peroxide and drying agents such as sulfur, salicylic acid, or selenium disulfide. You can use some human antidandruff shampoos, but it is safest to obtain an antiseborrheic shampoo designed for dogs from your veterinarian as some formulations for people can be irritating to some dog's skin.
If regular bathing and good flea control does not help within a month then see your veterinarian.
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EAR INFECTIONS
You can try a few different home remedies if your dog has reaccuring ear infections. First it is best to be sure that your dog does have an ear infection by having him/her checked out by your veterinarian.
The first remedy is 1/3 tea tree oil solution. 2/3 olive oil or any other light, non-toxic oil for the solution.
The second is 70% isopropyl alcohol, 10% povidone-iodine solution, or 0.5% chlorhexidine solution.
When using either of the remedies be sure to clean out the affected ear thoroughly with a rubber bulb syringe (being careful not to wedge the syringe in the ear, causing pressure to build up that can rupture the ear drum) filled with a warm antiseptic soap solution. Then you'll need to instill several drops of either of the rememdies mentioned above. If you see improvement 3-4 days, continue the treatment for two weeks. If no improvement.....seek professional help.
An easy home remedy to *prevent* ear infections (will not cure an existing one) is:
2 Tablespoons Boric Acid
4 oz Rubbing Alcohol
1 Tablespoon Glycerine
Shake well. Put 1 small eyedropperfull in each ear. Rub it around first, and then let the dog shake. Do this once a week and you shouldn't see any ear infections. It works by raising the pH level slightly inside the ear, making it less hospitable to bacteria.
Another treatment is the "Blue Powder Ear Treatment
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Ear Mites:
You can temporarily treat the ear mites by soaking a cotton ball with mineral oil and swabbing the ear canal. Then, seek the assistance of your veterinarian for treatment with Ivermectin.
Or.....- Try a few drops of mineral oil twice a day for 1-2 weeks. The mites can't breath and will smother to death.
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Expressing the Anal Glands Use one hand to hold up the dog's tail and pull it gently toward the head. Hold a disposable cloth or tissue in the other hand.
Place your thumb externally over one anal gland and your fingers over the other.
Press in and apply firm pressure as you pull your fingers posteriorly over the glands. The glands should empty out into your tissue.
If that didn't work empty each sac separately. Place your thumb externally over the sac and your gloved index finge over the same gland inside the rectum, then compress the sac between your thumb and finger.
Normal anal sac fluid should come out slightly yellow or brown in color.
Impacted sacs will be very difficult to express and the material may be pasty in texture and colored gray or black.
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FEVER & PAIN
Normal temperatures of cats and dogs ranges from 100.5 and 102.5 degrees. Sooth away the heat with a cool compress on their belly or a 10 minute cool bath. Ensure they are drinking enough water. Consult your vet, as fever can mean serious illness and/or infection.
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FISH HOOK REMOVAL
The only way to remove a fishhook once the barb passes through the skin is to cut the curved part of the hook just below the barb and pull the rest of the hook back out through the original hole.
Often this is too painful and you will have to let a veterinarian do it.
Unless, the hook was extremely clean the wound could get infected so antibiotics are a good idea
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Fleas:
Though a preventative such as Advantage� , Frontline� , Revolution�, or K9 Advantix� is the best way to treat and prevent fleas, a diet including Brewer's Yeast and garlic prove to keep them away, as well. Flea collars, powders, and dips only work temporarily; don't consider them for long-term use or you'll find the fleas returnin.
Want to catch fleas running loose in your home....
Small white dish (flea's love white) a little water and a touch of dawn (deadly to them ya know) and place it under a night light....while you sleep they die....it's like your own little flea zapper....I flipped the first time I used it. Figure out the worst area in your home and that's the BEST area to set your trap!
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To get fleas off your pet, try bathing them in Dawn dish washing liquid. It kills the fleas it comes in contact with. Borax works in the carpet. Works for roaches too. Advantage works to help keep the fleas off, but Dawn will kill most, if not all, fleas.
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For fleas in your carpet: Sprinkle table salt on the carpet and leave a few days. Vacuum up. This will kill the fleas in the carpet and will thus lead to flea-free pets.
2 parts tea tree oil and 1 part water mixed in a bowl and sponged all over your pet is supposed to kill fleas. Don't try to drip it all over them, just sponge it on...too much might hurt the animal. I suppose it can't help if the fleas are all in the house unless you get rid of them in the house also, so you should probably try other remedies like Borax laundry detergent.
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To help with fleas on your dogs: take a new spray bottle and fill half of it with apple cider vineger and half with warm tap water. Shake well and spray on the dog's coat. Rub it in good. No need to rinse, just let it dry, and use it daily or as needed.
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Brewer's yeast or desiccated liver will help get rid of fleas and promote a healthy coat.
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Dandruff shampoo makes an excellent flea bath...Head & Shoulders Shampoo.... really does work! (I have tried this).
Johnson's Baby Shampoo works for flea's.
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FLEAS: Borax laundry soap. Vacuum your carpet really good. Then sprinkle the Borax over your carpet. Use a broom and work it down into the fibers of your carpet really good. Don't vacuum for a week unless you have to. The fleas will eat the Borax. It will cause them to dehydrate and die. Repeat the process every week or so for a month. It really works, it's cheap and it is safe to use if you have small children.
In case your dog is suffering from the common problem of ticks or fleas then I suggest the following home remedy. Grind a few orange rinds to a paste and apply on fur. Keep on for, four to five hours and see the ticks and fleas vanish. Easy isn�t it? This remedy is effective in most case and is easy to make and apply. It is completely herbal and also safe for most dogs.
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Flatulence:
Exercise helps move gas out of the system, so take them for a walk. Stop feeding table scraps and dairy foods and ensure they aren't getting into the trash. Check the soy content of your pet's food; high soy content causes gas. Many yogurts contain digestion-friendly bacteria that can help decrease flatulence. Give 1/4 tsp. plain yogurt to cats and small dogs, 1 tsp. to dogs 15-20 pounds, and 1 Tbls. to large dogs. Raise their food dish to eliminate air digested while eating.
1. One way to lower your pet's temperature is with cool-water compresses. Soak a washcloth with cool water and pat his/her belly.
2. A cool bath for five to ten minutes will help bring fever down.
3. If your dog has a fever or minor aches you can give him buffered aspirin.You can give one-quarter of a 325-milligram tablet for every ten pounds once or twice a day, best taken on a full stomach. Never give acetaminophen (Tylenol) or ibuprofen (Advil).
If your pet's fever last more than 24 hours or is over 103 F. then you will need to seek veterinary treatment for him/her.
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FLIES & MAGGOTS
Flies
Biting flies cause irritation and scab formation along the ear edges of dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors.
If your dog has this problem, an application of commercial antifly ointments designed for horses' ears can help.
Maggots
Remove the maggots from the wound or infected area and wash the area with an antibacterial soap like Betadine. Apply a topical antibiotic cream like Mycitracin to treat any secondary bacterial infection that may be present.
It is very important to treat the wound or infection so that the area will not become reinfested with maggots.
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Frostbite and Hypothermia
If veterinary care is available do not attempt home care.
Wrap your pet in a blanket, (with a hot water bottle if possible) or whatever other insulator is handy, to retain any remaining body warmth and rush to your veterinarian.
If a veternarian is not available this is what you must do.
If frostbite is unaccompainied by signs of hypothermia, treatment is directed at the injured areas only.
Do not run the area but apply moist heat by immersing the part in warm water (102-104 degrees) or by applying warm moist towels.
Rapid return of sensation, pink color, and warmth to the skin indicate successful treatment.
If the dogs' temperature is above 86 degrees, simple home treatment for hypothermia is often successful.
Bring the pet into a warm room and cover him or her. Warm water bottles placed inside a blanket wrapped around the dog help speed up rewarming.
Be sure to rewarm the fluids as soon as their temperature drops below 100 degrees. This can be done in a microwave.
Electric heating pads may also be used if they are well insulated with a towel to keep from burning your dog.
An electric blanket can be used as long as you are supervising the animal and therefore do not let him get burned.
Immersion into warm water (102-104 degrees) can also be done, but only if there is a hair drier or heater available to prevent rechilling upon removal from the water.
The body temperature should be maintained just above 100 degrees until the body can maintain it's temperature and the animals temperature turns to normal.
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Hairballs:
First try a commercial hairball lubricant or a tsp. of petroleum jelly. Sometimes, high-fiber diets accelerate the passage of hairballs. Keep fleas under control to reduce licking. Brush your cat often, then follow with wiping the coat with a moist towel to pick up any loose hairs.
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HAIR SHEDDING
A common problem in households having pets is the falling hair that keeps sticking and adhering to various articles. To pick up the pets hair, from a blanket or furnishing fabric, wet a sponge and run it over the article. The hair will stick to the damp sponge and the article will look as good as new.
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Heatstroke and Heat Exhaustion Leaving your dog in a parked car in the summer (even with the window left a few inches open), can cause heatstroke within minutes.
Be aware that leaving your dog in a car parked in the shade does not assure that your dog will not become seriously overheated.
Shaded cars may still get very hot due to the the greenhouse effect, and the sun may also move enough to change shaded areas into sunny ones.
Dogs left in parked cars also at risk of being harrassed or stolen.
Heat exhaustion is often caused by over-exercising or running with a dog during hot weather.
Both heatstroke and heat exhaustion can result in brain damage, heart failure or even death in a short period of time.
Short muzzel and thick-coated breeds and mixes are particularly vulnerable, although any breed may be at risk.
Always bring cool water along when walking, running or hiking with your dog during hot weather.
To cool off an overheated dog, offer him plenty of water, then wet the dog's body and paws with cool water, then fan.
A dog's normal internal body temperature is between 100.5 degrees F and 02 degrees F.
If the dog experiences heatstroke or heat exhaustion, he should receive veterinary attention as soon as possible.
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HOT SPOTS
Keep It Clean
Clean the area with an antibacterial soap like phisoderm or any mild, nonperfumed soap.
Another way to keep it clean is to dab it with a cotton swab soaked in an antiseptic solution such as Betadine Solution.
If you can trim the hair away from the spot it will help you keep the spot clean.
Remedies
1. 2 Adult Aspirin
1 Tablespoon Rubbing Alcohol
1 Tea Bag [made into 1 cup of warm water]
Dissolve aspirin in alcohol; add to cup of tea. Let cool. Clip hair around spot. Apply to area with cotton ball. Follow with over-the-counter cortisone spray or creme. Repeat as necessary.
2. Soak a cotton ball in cooled, brewed "black tea". It's contains tannic acid which helps to dry up the area, and aid in healing.
3. Burow's Solution (aluminum acetate) three times a day will keep the area dry and promote healing. Burow's solution is available in pharmacies.
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Ease the Inflammation
1. Apply a thin layer of hydrocortisone cream. 1% concentration, twice daily.
2. Apply vitamin E gel (buy the capsules and open them) to the hot spot twice a day.
3. Apply the gel from an aloe vera plant.
If the hot spot has not improved in 24 hours you should call a veterinarian. Hot spots can turn into dangerous bacterial infections.
For dogs breeds that commonly get hotspots (oozy sores that appear overnight, get rapidly larger, and cause hair to fall out--all for no apparent reason and more common in hot, humid summers), such as labs, bird dogs, and pugs, you can visit the vet, buy the tube of ointment and treat it for two weeks or more before it slowly disappears or you can try this remedy: Take sulfur powder (also called flour of sulfur and available at the pharmacy) and mix it with enough rubbing alcohol to form a thick paste. Cake it onto the affected area of your dog and leave it there until it dries and falls off on its own. Do this for two days. It will sting the dog when it is first applied, but it goes away. The sore will dry up, heal, and hair will regrow. The cost is very cheap--less than 10 cents per treatment.
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Inflamation of the Skin of the Foot
Pododermatitis
Inflammation of the skin of the foot is when the web of the foot in the affected areas is reddened and usually moist from fluid leakage and licking. It may be swollen and the dog may be limping.
Home treatment:
First make sure the dog does not have a foreign body in it's foot. If you find a foreign body remove it and the pododermatitis may improve quickly.
If it doesn't improve wash the foot with a gentle antiseptic soap (example: chlorhexidine, povidone-iodine) followed by thorough drying and soaking it in warm water for 15 minutes twice a day.
Try to prevent your dog from licking the area.
The application of a soothing hydrocortisone ointment usually helps clear up the condition rapidly. You can get a product of this type over the counter at your local drugstore.
If the inflammation and/or soreness persists longer than 48 hours you should take your dog to a veterinarian.
Be aware that prolonged use of corticosteriod ointments in any but the most simple conditions confounds diagnosis, aggravates certain conditions, and interferes with healing.
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Insect Stings 1. If sting is on a flat part of the skin easily seen, apply a freshly sliced onion or a cold compress for a few minutes.
2. Give your dog benydryl.1 to 2 mg per pound body weight.
3. Other ways to help your pet deal with a minor insect sting is to apply a paste of baking soda and water to the bite or sting several times a day. You can also use milk of magnesia and apply it directly to the bite to help reduce the itching and the irritation.
Removing the Stinger
If your pet is stung by a bee, wasp or hornet and you see the stinger, do not use your fingers or tweezers to remove stinger as it will squeeze more poison into the wound.
Holding a dull knife perpendicularly to the skin, scrape across area of sting a few times, this will grab the stinger and release it without pain. Put some calamine on the area once removed.
Severe Reaction
If your pet is stung in the mouth, nose or tongue, remove the stinger if you can and then watch your pet carefully. If your pet is stung at 10:00 and at 10:10 the swelling is big, then they are having a severe reaction to the sting and you should take your pet to see your veterinarian immediately.
A severe reaction to a sting can lead to difficulty in breathing and possibly death.
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ITCHING
It is best to find out the source of the itch and treat it.
You can relieve your pet's itch with calomine lotion or an over the counter spray or lotion corticosteroid.
Sometimes adding vitamins such as vitamin C, Vitamin E, selenium and zinc will help (ask your veterinarian for the correct dose for your dog) or adding one teaspoon of safflower oil to your dog's food daily
Don't rule out the possibility of allergies or the mange as a cause of your pet's itch or some underlying health problem.
Itchy Skin from Allergies:
Give your pet a 10 minute cool bath to relieve itching. For further soothing, you may also add colloidal oatmeal (Aveeno�) to the bathwater. For dogs with itchy feet, fill the tub with enough cool water to cover their feet, dissolve a couple cups of Epsom salts in the water, and soak the dog's feet for 5-10 minutes. Be careful not to let them drink the water.
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Kitty Litter:
To keep cat litter fresh smelling, mix baby powder in with the litter.
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Lameness Due to
Soft Tissue Injury
If your dog has a mild to moderate lameness due to soft tissue injury, enforced rest is the best treatment, and it should result in rapid improvement in 2-7 days.
Ice packs and aspirin can be used to relieve inflammation and discomfort.
You can give one-quarter of a 325-milligram tablet of aspirin for every ten pounds once or twice a day, best taken on a full stomach. Never give acetaminophen (Tylenol) or ibuprofen (Advil).
Consult your veterinarian in more severe cases.
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LOW BLOOD SUGAR
With low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) first aid treatment can help. Honey, syrup, or sugar water may reverse the problem for a puppy that begins to become confused or weak due to lack of eating properly, but only if it is given at the first signs of a problem, before collapse or seizures occur.
If a diabetic dog that has had too much insulin and shows signs of weakness is given sugar promptly, it can prevent further problems from developing.
Dosage depends on the size of the dog. Approximately a tablespoon given a little at a time is probably enough for a small dog, more for a larger dog.
Do not give anything orally if a dog is unconscious.
A veterinary checkup should be given once the dog is stabilized.
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MANGE ON DOGS
Dog Mange: 1% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide. You get this with a 3% Solution bottle from Wal-Mart poured into a container then fill the bottle with water twice and add to the same bucket. One part 3% Hydrogen Peroxide and 2 parts water equal a 1% solution. The water dilutes the 3% solution to 1% solution. Now put in borax until it won't dissolve any more and you're done. Borax is not a laundry soap it is a chemical (boric acid mostly) and is used as a laundry booster. Its cheap and available at Wal-mart as well. It won't hurt the dog...at all. There are some kennels that suggest a dose in the food (I think this is unwise) but the borax bath is harmless....it kills the fleas as well. Hope this helps .....
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MATTED COAT
Dogs of any breed with coats one inch or longer must have regular grooming to prevent mat formation. Severe mats cause painful pulling of the skin, and mats often provide a place for parasites such as fleas and maggots to hide.
Use Cornstarch... sprinkle the cornstarch onto the mat (not too much), then pull the mat apart with your fingers. Start at the end's of the hair, dividing the mat in half, quarter etc. When finished breaking up the mat, run a comb through it for a nice finish.
If the mat becomes too large you may have to cut it away with scissors or clippers.
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Milk Replacement - Baby Milk
1 can Pet brand condensed milk
1 can water
2 egg yolks (broken and strained from sac)
1 Tablespoon Karo syrup
Break the egg yolks and hold onto the sac... it stops up the bottle nipples.
This formula will work with all kinds of critters.
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MINOR BURNS
In a superficial burn, the hair will remain firmly attached. If you pull on the hair in the area of the burn and it comes out easily, the burn is deeper and more serious. Seek a veterinarian's care.
Immediate treatment of thermal burns consists of applying cold water or ice compresses for twenty minutes.
The affected area should then be washed with povidone-iodine or chlorhexidine disinfectant. Neomycin-polymixin B-bacitracin cream can then be applied topically if the burn is minor.
Deep burns or burns covering a large area need emergency veterinary treatment.
It is a good idea to have all burns examined by a veterinarian within 24 hours of the injury.
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Motion Sickness and Vomiting
Some dogs become nauseated and vomit when they ride in cars. The first sign of nausea is usually excessive drooling.
If the car is stopped and the dog is exercised at this point, the signs often subside and the trip can be resumed for at least a short time. Most young dogs with this problem seem to outgrow it, particularly if they are taken for short but frequent automobile rides.
Home Remedy
If your dog is prone to motion sickness, avoid feeding for eight hours before traveling, stop for frequent exercise, and be sure there is adequate ventilation in the vehicle.
If these measures aren't sufficient to prevent vomiting, motion sickness pills for people containing dimenhydrinate (1 milligram per pound {2.2 mg/kg} of body weight), given about thirty minutes before car rides, will help some dogs.
Example of motion sickness pill that can be given is Dramamine. Give medium to large dogs 25 to 50 milligrams an hour before traveling. For small dogs give about 12.5 milligrams.
In other cases prescription drugs (certain tranquilizers) that act on the "nausea centers" in the brain must be used to control the problem. Ask your veterinarian about these drugs.
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NAILS CUT TOO SHORT-
If you are clipping your dogs nails, and you have gone to far and hit a vein, to stop the bleeding either take the cooking seasoing ALUM and out the powder on the tip of nail, the bleeding will stop. If no Alum take a bar of soap, espeically the one in your shower and place nail in soap as if to clog the flow and the bleeding will stop almost immediatly. A vet once told me if you have no blood stopper around, that flour or baby powder will work on nails.
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NOSE
If your dog has a minor skin irritation on his or her nose that is caused by the dog using it's nose to dig or poking it threw a fence then you should correct such irritations by observing and modifying your dog's behavior.
Thickening of the nose skin is common as a dog ages. You can help keep the animals nose soft by applying petroleum jelly or emollient creams made for humans.
Any condition (unaccompanied by other signs) that does not improved within one week should be seen by a veterinarian.
Conditions involving the inside of the nose should not be treated at home.
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Pet Urine on Carpet:
First, blot up what you can with paper towels. Then, with warm, soapy water and a clean cloth, blot the area clean; rinse with clean water; blot until dry. Next, combine 1/3 cup white vinegar with 2/3 cup water and dab it on stain; rinse with clean water; blot until dry. Once the area is totally dry (at least 24 hours), sprinkle entire carpet with baking soda or rug deodorizer; vacuum after a few hours.
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Porcupine Quill Removal
The important thing to remember is you must remove the entire quill.
Grasp the quill with a pair of pliers near the point where it disappears into the skin; then, with a quick tug, pull it out.
Apply a topical antiseptic like Betadine Solution after removing a quill.
It you do not remove all of the quill you will need a veterinarian's help.
Do not ignore small pieces of quill left in the skin as they can migrate long distances into bone or internal organs and cause infection.
If you find quills inside the mouth or throat-or if your pet has numerous quills in his/her skin--take him/her to a veterinarian right away.
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Puppy Diarrhea/Dogs with Soft Stool:
Plain canned pumpkin works well for puppies with diarrhea and adult dogs with soft stool. A few spoonfuls in their food will often stop it right away. The pumpkins adds fiber to the diet, therefore firming up the stools. It often works more completely and more quickly than Kaopectate� if your pet isn't ill from something else.
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Removing Burrs:
Remove burrs in your pet's coat as soon as possible. Allowing their fur to get wet makes it worse, so keep them dry. Most burrs can be removed with your fingers or tweezers. For the more difficult ones, soak the area in vegetable oil to help slide them out.
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Removing Hair From Ears
To pluck ear canal hair, grasp protruding hair with your fingers or a pair of tweezers (HEMOSTATS WORK BETTER) and give a quick jerk. Hair in the ear canal usually comes out easily, and the plucking process does not seem to be painful if done properly and if the ear canal is not inflamed. Be careful not to tug on the hair just outside the ear canal--that hurts. Hair not easily removed by plucking may need to be clipped out.
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RINGWORM
Many uncomplicated cases of ringworm heal spontaneously in one to three months, so isolated infected areas may be cleared with simple home care.
The affected area should be clipped free of hair and washed daily in a povidone-iodine (such as Betadine) or chlorhesidine shampoo (Nolvasan) followed by an application of an antifungal cream or drops.
Products containing 2% miconazole nitrate or 1% clotrimazole can be purchased in a drugstore without a prescription.
A 0.5% solution of chlorine bleach applied once a day can be effective on localized lesions.
Vacuum your house often if your pet lives inside.
Ringworm cases that do not respond, that have a secondary bacterial infection, or that involve the toenails or several body areas should be treated by a veterinarian.
"Lotrimin Liquid Spray" worked for me on a dog that had hair loss from a fungus....also kills ringworm on a dog or human.
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Removing Hair From Ears
To pluck ear canal hair, grasp protruding hair with your fingers or a pair of tweezers (HEMOSTATS WORK BETTER) and give a quick jerk. Hair in the ear canal usually comes out easily, and the plucking process does not seem to be painful if done properly and if the ear canal is not inflamed. Be careful not to tug on the hair just outside the ear canal--that hurts. Hair not easily removed by plucking may need to be clipped out.
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SAFE PEST CONTROL
- Do you have trouble with ants but your afraid to use poison because of your pets. THEN DONT! Try putting out some cornmeal instead. They will take it to their nest to eat. Little do they know they can't digest it and will kill out their whole colony. Leaving your pet safe and your home chemical free.
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Seizures
Dogs don't swallow their tongues, so don't put your hand in their mouth. Move furniture out of the way and try to keep the area as dark as possible. Gentle talking and stroking may help to shorten the length of the seizure. If the seizure lasts more than 10 minutes, take your pet to the vet immediately. If this is the first time your pet is having a seizure, take him to the vet for assessment.
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SKUNK SMELL
1. 1 quart of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, 1 teaspoon of Liquid Dish Soap (Dawn is recommended). Mix it and put it in a spray bottle. Spray your dogs with the mixture while scrubbing him with a sponge saturated with solution. Rinse with tap water.
2. You can use shampoo and water for a bath, then follow with a milk or tomato juice soak. Pour the milk or juice on straight; let it sit for about ten minutes, then rinse. If you don't have milk or juice you can also follow the bath with lemon or lime juice mixed with equal parts of water or one to two teaspoonfuls of household ammonia in one quart of water.
3. Try Massengill medicated douche.
For small to medium dogs-mix two oz. of Massengill with one gallon water. For large dogs, double the amount.
Pour the mixture over your dog until it soaks in and leave it on for 15 mins. Rinse.
4. You can douse your dog 1 1/4 cup of vanilla extract mixed in a gallon of water. Let it soak for 10 mins and then shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
5. There is also a commercial product that you can buy at your local pet supply store or grocery store.
MY DAD USED TO TELL ME THAT TOMATO JUICE POURED OVER A DOG WOULD WORK
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TAR & PAINT
Tar and paint are difficult substances to remove. NEVER use gasoline, turpentine, kerosene, paint remover, or other similiar substances to in an attempt to remove them.
Cut out small accumulations of tar or paint. Large amounts of tar can be removed without cutting by applying vegetable oil, mineral oil, or ointments containing the surface-active agent polyoxethylene sorbitan for 24 hours then wash with a mild detergent and water.
If the dog's feet have tar on them, apply ointment or oil, then cover with a bandage
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PREVENTION OF TEAR STAINS
Clip the stained hair under the eye and every day or every other day just apply a small amount of vaseline to the area (or KY jelley) so that the tears roll off.
You can also buy a product called diamond eyes and apply it to the eyes once a day to keep the tearing and staining to a minimum.
Hydrogen Peroxide will remove tear stains. Sometimes when dogs drink out of waterbowls, the hair around their muzzle gets wet...therefore the damp hair gets bacteria causing tear stains. A water bottle can be attached to a cage to prevent this.
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Reduce Anal Sac Problems:
Stop feeding your pet table scraps. The fatty foods soften the stool, making the fluid more likely to build up.
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REMOVING A TICK
The easiest way to remove ticks is usually by hand. Using forceps, tweezers, or your thumb and first finger protected by a tissue, grasp the tick as close as possible to where its mouthparts insert into the dog's skin.
Then exert a firm but gentle, constant pull. If you've pulled just right and gotten the tick at the optimum time after attachment, the entire tick will detach.
If the mouthparts are left embedded, don't worry. The tick never grows back, the mouthparts fall out naturally, and only rarely does a tick bite become infected.
If you feel you must apply something to the tick, use a small amount of concentrated flea or tick dip or alcohol, and apply it only to the tick, not to the surrounding skin or hair.
Wait a few minutes and then pull the tick off.
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TAKING A TEMPERATURE
Take the dog's temperature with a standard rectal thermometer, lubricated with vaseline. After the thermometer is shaken down it is placed gently into the dog's rectum until only one inch remains visible.
Leave it there for one minute.
A normal temperature for a dog is between 100 and 102.5 degrees. If it is above that the dog has a fever, if it is below that the dog is hypothermic and needs to be kept warmer.
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Urinary Infections:
The common human remedy of cranberry, orange, and other citrus juices also work for pets in boosting the acidity of the urine and decreasing the amount of bacteria. A chewable vitamin C tablet a day will reduce the acidity to prevent further infections.
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Vomiting and Home
Treatment of Vomiting
Vomiting is the forcible expulsion of stomach and/or intestinal contents through the mouth. Vomiting occurs commonly in dogs. It seems to be caused most often by irritation of the stomach, called simple gastritis.
Gastritis is usually caused by the ingestion of an irritant substance--for example, decomposed food, grass, aluminum foil, paper, or bones. The dog often first vomits food or another irritant material and later vomits clear or yellow fluid.
Dogs with gastric irritation may seek grass to eat, but grass eating is often an "enjoyable pastime" for dogs and not a sign of illness. They may or may not be interested in their normal food.
If your dog vomits once or twice, has no fever or obvious abdominal pain, and is no more than slightly depressed (inactive), you can probably treat the vomiting at home.
It is time to seek veterinary help for vomiting if your dog vomits more than a few times, if the vomitus is ejected extremely forcefully, if there is blood in the vomitus or obvious abdominal pain, or if your dog seems particularly depressed or weak, has a fever, or retches unproductively, do not attempt to treat the condition at home.
Never give a dog vomiting blood ...oral medications.
Do not feed your dog for twelve to twenty-four hours following vomiting. At the end of twelve hours , you can offer a very small amount of soft, bland food such as cooked rice and skinless chicken breast, pasta, or potatoes mixed with low-fat cottage cheese (9-to1 ratio). If your dog keeps this small meal down for about four hours, another small meal can be offered, then another about four hours later. If no further vomiting occurs, the next day's meals can be normal-sized portion of bland food and the following day you can return your dog to a regular diet. Water should be offered only in small amounts but frequently in order to combat the tendency to dehydrate that accompanies vomiting. Large amount of food or water distend the already irritated stomach and usually cause vomiting to recur. An easy way to have water available in small portions is to place ice cubes in the water bowl and allow the dog to drink the liquid that accumulates as the cubes melt.
Withholding food for 24 hours from very small dogs or puppies may lead to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and is dangerous. In this instance, withhold food for several hours and administer small amounts of honey, Karo syrup, or sugar water frequently during the period of food withdrawal.
Even simple gastritis cannot always be treated successfully without the help of a veterinarian, and there are many other serious causes of vomiting, among them intestinal foreign bodies, bowel or stomach torsion (twisting) inflammation of the pancreas, kidney failure, and even certain forms of epilepsy.
Some dogs, particularly young dogs used to eating several times a day, vomit during the hours preceding their regular meal. The vomitus usually looks like a frothy white or yellow fluid and is usually present in small amounts. This type of vomiting may be due to excess gastric acidity and can be controlled in several ways:
1. Feed two meal a day (morning and evening).
2. Allow free-choice feeding.
3. Administer an antacid before the time when vomiting usually occurs. This last method is the least desirable since prolonged use may stimulate even greater secretion of gastric secretions.
Another not-very-serious type of vomiting experienced frequently by young dogs occurs following meals, usually those who gobble their food, overeat, and/or exercise excessively immediately following eating. If your dog is an after-meal vomiter, you can try the following:
1. If your dog normally eats with other animals, feed the one who vomits by him- or herself. Competition encourages food gulping.
2. Feed smaller meals more frequently.
3. Enforce rest after meals.
4. Try a food that has to be chewed before swallowing (e.g., large-size kibbles).
Medications
Doses vary widely from pet to pet, however, so be sure to ask your vet for advice.
1. Pepto-Bismol can be given. Give one teaspoon per 20 pounds of weight every four to six hours.
2. Kaopectate is helpful for digestive troubles. Give one teaspoon of Kaopectate for each ten pounds of weight every four hours.
3. Di Gel Liquid can be given up to 4 tbs. every 8 hours.
4. Maalox can be given up to 4 tbs. every 8 hours.
5. Antacid liquids for humans containing aluminum and/or magnesium hydroxide may help soothe the irritated stomach lining; however, the most important part of treatment is fasting! (Dose aluminum hydroxide antacids to provide 10mg per pound [22 mg/kg] of body weight every six hours.) If vomiting is present with diarrhea, drugs containing bismuth subsalicylate are best.
Do not give any preparations containing aspirin when your pet has upset stomach.
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HOW TO INDUCE VOMITING
If you know that your dog has ingested medications or drugs that are not caustic, (a strong acid or alkali, kerosene), you should induce vomiting quickly.
To induce vomiting give the dog one to two teaspoons of Ipecac or hydrogen peroxide (1:1 with water) orally with a spoon.
Then give milk mixed with a raw egg at 1/4 cup per 10 lbs. of body weight.
Do not induce vomiting if your dog is already losing consciousness or is beginning to convulse.
If veterinarian care is immediately available, do not waste your time on home treatments.
You should have the dog seen by your veterinarian to make sure no drug remains in the dog's body and to check for any side effects.
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Urinary Infections:
The common human remedy of cranberry, orange, and other citrus juices also work for pets in boosting the acidity of the urine and decreasing the amount of bacteria. A chewable vitamin C tablet a day will reduce the acidity to prevent further infections.
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WOUNDS
Flush a mild disinfectant into the wound under light pressure. You can use an eyedropper, turkey baster, bulb syringe, or a syringe.
You can use a disinfectant such as 0.001$-1% povidone-iodine (the more dilute solutions are less damaging to healthy tissue), 0.05% chlorhexidine, and 0.125%-0.5% sodium hypochlorite (one fourth to full strenght Dakin's solution), which can be made by diluting household bleach 1:10 to 1:40 with water.
You could also use hydrogen peroxide and the concentrate should only be about 3%.
Or you could use a Boric Acid solution. It comes in powdered form, and you can mix it up as per the directions on the bottle with distilled water.
Do not apply any oil-based antibiotic ointments or those containing the local anesthetic benzocaine. This may interfere with healing.
If possible, antibiotics should be administered by a veterinarian within 24 hours of injury
Examine daily for infection. If the wound becomes infected take your dog to your veterinarian.
Flowers Of Sulfur is good if you can't get to a vet at once for a cut on a dog ( and its not too severe ) ..just fill the cut with this powder...works wonders!
I recommend Jeffers for your pets needs:
The following items are suggested BEFORE you take your new pet home ...and can be purchased thru Jeffers
Call ( 1-800-Jeffers ) and ask for the "Free" Pet Catalog.
DK-CP Classic Large Kennel 26" x 18 1/2" x 16"
I housebreak my dogs in a Carrier. I only use this for night-time ( when pups are too small to sleep on my bed, without falling off ), I take them out first thing every morning and change their bedding ). I use this size because I don't want my babies to feel "cramped"....when pup is very small I put a large plastic container in the back of the carrier to take up space...when pup grows, I remove it.
G6-AD Wire Crate, 42"L x 26 1/2"W x 30"H (Black)
This is a must for my family. When I have to leave home ( Dr. appts., grocery shopping, etc. ) I don't want to leave any of my girls outside in the cold (or rainy) weather and one of my girls ( Demi ) is terrified of thunder/lightening...this gives them room to move around in and yet keep them out of dangerous situations when we can't be there to watch them. This is similar to the "Playpen" your mom may have put you in when she had work to do, and you were into everything...this is a playpen for pups. I put a wire floor in mine, so that if pup has NOT had all vaccines I put them in this first thing every morning, instead of putting them on the ground. Pup can do her business in here and the feces will fall thru the floor onto a pan with newspaper in it. This is also great on those cold rainy, freezing days when it's just to messy to go outside.
Wee-Wee Pads...Puppy Housebreaking Pads
Heavy-duty, super-absorbent, scientifically treated pads that attract your puppy when nature calls. Plastic lined. Can be used outside after the inside training is completed. Each disposable pad is 23" x 24".
39-W6 Wee-Wee Pads, 100 pads
Frontline� Spray for dogs, cats, puppies & kittens
(Merial) Contains Fipronil for a fast & effective way of elimination large flea & tick infestation already on your pet. Kills 98-100% of adult fleas within 24 hrs, ticks within 48 hrs & control lice infestations within 48 hrs. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange in dogs. Can be used on kittens & puppies from 8 wks of age. Provides up to 6 wks protection for cats & up to 4 wks protection for dogs.
WV-FA Frontline� Spray, 250 ml
WV-FB Frontline� Spray, 500 ml
We find that the Frontline SPRAY works better than the drops or flea/tick collars.
This product REALLY works for our babies!
PLEASE have your pet micro chipped...and also tattooed. Never have the tattoo put in the ear. A thief that gets your baby can cut the ear off to get rid of the tattoo and sell your baby...always get the tattoo on the stomach or inner thigh. Some animal shelters cannot afford the microchip scanner which is around $250.00 because they rely solely on donations (and cannot afford it).
Why are microchips important for stolen dogs?: A microchip may be the only way that you can identify your stolen dog. If your dog is stolen and located, the police will need a way to positively identify the dog as your dog - a microchip is a guaranteed way to do this. Please have your pet micro chipped!
Information on Bunchers:
This Page Last Updated:
Saturday January 4, 2025
This page is only updated whenever i add health info
There is no such thing as the "perfect dog". Dogs are just like us humans...they can have health problems that no one can see in the future. Purebred dogs have the highest health problems. If you are looking for a specific breed...read all you can about that breed and its health problems. Dachshunds can have spinal problems, Poodles can have cataracts, Chihuahuas can have luxating patella's, Yorkies can have liver shunts, Maltese & Dalmatians can be born deaf, Cocker Spaniels can have cherry eye....and the list goes on and on. Dogs can even be Diabetic ! If a breeder does not know of a problem with the parent dogs, then they are not at fault if the puppy you get ends up sick or dies...all they can do is STOP BREEDING THAT PUPPY'S PARENTS (FOREVER)......and, replace the puppy...or refund the money you spent on it. When a breeder keeps breeding a dog they have been told is throwing pups with life threatening problems....they are NOT a good breeder. A mixed breed is usually less likely to have the health problems that a purebred has. Some health problems are not as severe as others. For instance I once owned a dog, when she had a checkup she was found to have a luxating patella which I NEVER knew about...or could tell she had. Small breeds of dogs can and do have this problem, but it is not life threatening...but its a fact of life that anything that breathes can have health problems at some point in its life. The very small dogs some people refer to as a "teacup" (which there is no such thing) can have seizures, low blood sugar ( Hypoglycemia )...and are very fragile...and should not be raised around young children. A 8-12 lb dog is small but not tiny...can be taken for walks, jump in and out of your car...or on your bed....can romp with your kids...I like & recommend this size.
If ever I am told, more than once....that a puppy of mine has a severe life threatening health problem that's genetic or hereditary, the PARENTS STOP BREEDING AT ONCE...and homes are found for them to people who know their condition and are willing to have them as pets only...( they cannot both go to the same home, because if someone breeds them I have failed to stop the problem ). I am a person who could care less about registration papers...but some customers want them and I provide them....thru CKC. I love my dogs for who they are... not for how many champions are in their background. No one registry is better than another...they provide a piece of paper with names on it...but if you are into showing dogs you may feel different than I do. If you have your pet spayed or neutered (which I highly recommend), then the papers are of no value except as a keepsake.
Some registries are too political for me ( I won't mention which ones )...and some registries are no company at all...just people like you and me that come up with a fancy registry name...the papers are coming out of their house...not a company or building ( so you have no guarantee that 5 years from now any thing from that person can be registered ). Some registries will "MAKE" you register your pup thru them, by making the breeder pay for your papers...even if you don't want the papers or don't plan on breeding your pup...I do not think this is fair. Don't let anyone fool you into thinking papers can't be put on a dog that should have never had papers...ALL breeders know the tricks....and this can be done with the BIG name registries. Just because a dog has papers does not always mean a dog is what someone says it is, no matter what registry it is. DNA does NOT LIE. Every pup I sell comes from the parents I say they come from ( and can be backed up thru DNA ). Dogs are truly mans BEST FRIEND. Everyone who knows me knows what my dogs mean to me. I laugh to myself when I hear someone say "my dog is AKC". When you really think about it...what do you have when you have dog papers? (I don't have papers on my human children...are they are still great kids...to me).
If you are considering adopting a puppy, consider how your children will react to this new life in your home. Are your children controlled, taught how to handle a new pup or dog? Children can chase a newborn or young pup or dog and actually terrify it to the point of snapping/biting at your child. I really don't like to have my babies go to a home with very small young children for this reason. I hear stories on the phone all the time about "how well behaved my children are"...but when they arrive at my home it's not quiet like the parent described. I take my babies VERY SERIOUSLY and have poured my heart and soul into the lives that I bring into this world. I will not tolerate animal abuse. I am not into it for the money...I have to charge money because of expenses. It's not cheap raising puppies, but I want every dog lover to have what I could not have as a child. I want every dog lover to know the true meaning of love...and nothing can love you like a dog can.
From time to time I see things or hear things in public that makes my skin crawl...here is a few things:
I want a dog...but my husband "won't let me have one"....or "I have to ask my husband if I can have one" (This one kills me). He won't let you? If you have to "ask him"...chances are he's not a dog loving person...so I don't want my babies going to your home. Dogs know when they aren't loved or wanted...just like humans. I want all my babies to go to fun homes where there are no "hang-ups" of any kind. Where they can feel free to play or run or be themselves....after all...life is short.
My German Shepard just loves to play with my Chihuahua....and never hurts it. Yes, this is possible for awhile....but a large dog can hurt a small one even by not meaning to...and in the end the large dog can kill your Chihuahua on purpose for whatever reason....even though they were friends for a long long time...I have seen it too many times.
I see people taking 6 & 8 week old puppies to public places like ball fields letting all their friends play with it...and putting it on the ground to pick up thousands of germs.
I see people feeding their dogs boiled chicken and rice (because the dog loves it). Duh, wouldn't you rather have steak instead of bologna? Human food is not for dogs...that's why dog food was invented. When the Pancreas is destroyed it cannot be "fixed". There are scientists working day in and day out to prove human food is not good for your dog. I once sold a Chihuahua pup to a girl and gave her a sample of puppy food (enough to last at least 4 days)...when that food ran out instead of buying more, she reached in the pantry and grabbed a can of "corned beef hash". The next day she called me crying and said her vet bill was almost 600.00 and the dog was barely alive . The dog recovered but it's health was never good after that. Well, you say..."my Aunt Martha's dog eat table food all it's 14 years and was just fine". I say that is possible. I also say a person who smokes or drinks can outlive someone who doesn't...but how many do??? A dogs body cannot tolerate the amount of fat that a humans body can...plain and simple don't feed your dog human food...EVER!
I hear this one a million times a year. When I got the puppy home, it wouldn't eat the dog food you gave me...or when I got the pup home it wouldn't eat dog food...it wanted Vienna sausage. Strange the pup eat the entire time at my home...puppy food. "It wanted Vienna sausage"?????? Are you insane? Do I look that stupid to you? Give me a break...my puppies ( and grown dogs) wouldn't know what a Vienna sausage was if I dangled in it front of their noses. Would they eat one...probably...but they have a very strict mommy that will not allow it...why? because I love them tooooo much to lose them!!!
My dog ran out the door before I could grab him and was killed by a car. I can't count the times I have heard this one. A vet once told me that a male dog can smell a female dog in heat 3 blocks away. If your dog has been neutered before he knows what sex is...he will never know. He won't care about the lady down the street.
Pet stores who let hundreds of people handle all the puppies. These people who are handling the pups...are the same people who didn't have anything better to do than ride out to a run down kennel where parvo was everywhere...then went to see the puppies at the pet stores. You come along and buy one of the pups that were handled only to find out a week later that your baby has parvo....how do you think it has it??? Wouldn't you rather get a pup that's never been handled by anyone other than the breeder? That's never had its feet on the floor or ground, around germs while it's vaccines were taking place? That's been confined to a clean "public restricted" area free of the public's germs?
EMERGENCY SITUATIONS THAT NEED IMMEDIATE VET CARE
Difficulty breathing: noisy respiration, blue tongue, gasping for breath
Bee stings on throat area
Bleeding that does not stop from any part of the body. Apply pressure with a clean cloth and go!
Severe Bleeding:
Place gauze over the wound and apply direct pressure using your hands for 5 minutes, recheck, and continue applying pressure until bleeding stops or you've reached the vet. Do not use a tourniquet, as they are dangerous. Cold packs over oozing wounds can help reduce swelling and bleeding. Take your pet to the vet immediately.
Bloated or distended abdomen or swollen or painful abdomen with or without vomiting
Inability to urinate or move bowels but continues to try or has bloody stool or urine or painful defecation or urination
Heatstroke: heavy panting, extreme weakness, body temperature about 104 degrees
Inability to deliver puppies or kittens, labor contractions for longer than one hour or more than 15 minutes of labor with the fetus or membrane showing.
Loss of balance or consciousness or seizure, including: tremors, coma, staggering, convulsions, sudden blindness, tilting of the head, biting at imaginary objects, sudden changes in disposition such as unusual withdrawal or out-of-character aggressiveness
Pain, severe or continuous
Major trauma, injury, or shock from falls, vehicle accidents, wounds, cuts, broken bones. Signs to look for: weakness, collapse, shallow breathing, rapid heartbeat, bewildered appearance, dilated pupils
Ingested poison. Bring the container of the product or a list of ingredients if you have it
Penetrating wounds anywhere on the body, but especially in the chest or abdomen
Vomiting or diarrhea with blood or violent episodes
Lameness and cannot bear any weight on the leg
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OVER THE COUNTER MEDICATIONS YOU CAN GIVE YOUR DOG: "ASK YOUR VET"...ABOUT THIS BEFORE YOU THINK ABOUT GIVING THESE TO YOUR DOG!!!
Buffered Aspirin..................................................For Dogs Only. Pan relief, anti-inflammatory....................................................................Call your vet for dosage
Baby Aspirin .......................................................For Dogs Only. Pan relief, anti-inflammatory....................................................................Call your vet for dosage
Benedryl..............................................................Treat allergies, itching, reaction to insect stings, etc......................................................Call your vet for dosage
Dramamine......................................... Not for animals with glacoma or bladder problems. Reduces car sickness........................... Call your vet for dosage
Pepto-Bismol....................................................For dogs only. Relive vomiting or stomach gas, diarrhea.............................................. Call your vet for dosage
Hydrogen Peroxide 3%........................To induce vomiting after accidental ingestion of a poison...................................................... Call your vet for dosage
Mineral Oil...........................................................................Eliminate constipation............................................................................................. Call your vet for dosage
Acetaminophen, Tylenol, Ibuprofen, Moltrin, Nuprin, Aleve........................................NEVER GIVE TO ANIMALS!!
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Parvo is a virus, and it is very deadly. It can be transmitted from clothes, hands and shoes into my home...therefore I do not let people handle my babies, this is for their protection as well as my babies. I have never had an outbreak of Parvo at my kennel...and do not want it. Ever been to a pet shop where everyone handles the pups, puts them down on the floor to "see them play" ? Do you really want a pup who has be handled by hundreds of people, then you come along and buy it only to find out it has Parvo? Our pups are raised into a small building we call the "Nursery"...no one is allowed in there except my husband and myself. Hospitals do not let the public in their nursery...there's a reason for it ( GERMS ). You cannot "see" the Parvo germ, but its most everywhere. In can be found in feces in your grocery store parking lot, you can be the very one who tracks it into your home. It can be found in your vets office or pet stores who sell pet products ( where pets are allowed to go in ). I always tell my customers, please wait until your baby has had all its vaccines before you start putting it outside to potty train it, or take it for a walk. A puppy can be trained indoors on Weewee pads or newspapers until it gets big enough to go down steps to go outside (and after it's had all it's vaccines). Parvo is probably the #1 fear of ALL dog owners
PARVOVIRUS
Parvo is a virus that is easily picked up and performs a series of life cycles. This nasty virus can easily survive it's enviroment and contamenate again and again with out careful prevention. There are many options you can give when trying to "cure" a puppy of this virus.
The virus is transmitted by oral ingestion of viral contaminated feces. Feces can contaminate the enviroment. This means even walking from one yard to the next with deep tread on boots (with dirt) can transport parvo. Thus infecting the enviroment of the next yard. It takes only a single lick of their fur, eating off the ground, or simply eating the stool for the dog to become infected with parvo.
Upon ingestion by the new host it infects local lymph nodes, quickly multiplies and then via the blood moves to the small intestine where signs of the disease begin in approximately 5-6 days. The virus is extremely deleterious to the lining (mucosa) of the small intestine. The surface of the mucosa is stripped away upsetting crucial barriers and interfering with normal balance of digestive enzyme secretion and nutrient absorption. Additionaly, the normal bacterial flora of the small intestine which aid in digestion are now exposed to ulcerated mucosa, providing a direct route into the blood stream. Fluid loss from both vomiting and diarrhea is dramatic and dehydration ensues. In severe cases of blood lose the dog dies from anemia before dieing of Parvo.
Possible Anemia can form causing the situation to worsen and less likely to resolve. Anemia is the lose of red blood cells and blood content. Anemia can cause weakness, loss of appetite, low immune system, and death from it alone in severe cases. It can cause infection if the puppy starts to win the battle against Parvo and lives longer than a few days allowing the bacteria to mature in the intestine and infect the blood stream. A secondary antibiotic is well worth while if the puppy appears to be recovering from the Parvo.
The onslaught of bacteria and toxins into the blood will ultimately cause death. Precipitous drops in white blood cell (WBC) counts are common and relate directly to the prognosis and outcome of the infection. Ominous drops in white blood cells are attributed to overwhelming degradation of WBC¹s and the direct depressive viral effect on WBC production in the bone marrow. Dogs that survive Parvo tend to have gritty teeth and weaker bones that tend to break very easily from the depression of WBC in that period of time. So even though the dog has gained his nutritional status back as an adult, think twice before hunting with a mouthy one, for his physical status may never be the same.
The incidence of the disease is highest in young dogs and tends to start after the puppy has lost its maternal protection passed on at birth with the first milk (colostrum). This is why it is important not to go by the puppies age for shots, but to go Any age can be infected but, most dogs are infected between the ages of 2-6 months when maternal antibody decreases below a protective level in the puppy. Signs of the disease usually are mild to nonexistent. However, a full blown case of parvovirus untreated can easily be fatal. Certain breeds seem to be more sensitive to the disease; possibly related to their immune system. Generally, a diagnosis is made on the signs of the disease and falling white blood cell counts. Good rapid diagnostic tests are also available at veterinary clinics. Additionally, the virus can be found in the feces by commercial labs using electron microscopy.
Even after the host has appeared cured from this virus, the virus may linger around the enviromenet to infect another host. The virus is extremely hardy and survives for long periods outside its host. The virus will live in the environment up to 6 months and survives winter nicely under a blanket of snow where the temperature is usually around 25-28 degrees F. Extremely cold temperatures prior to snow fall will kill the virus. Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is the only effective disinfecting agent.
Treatment for the disease is primarily supportive although recently immunotherapy has become important. Historically, dogs were supported by aggressive intravenous fluid therapy to combat hydration and antibiotics given to reduce secondary bacterial infection. Food is withheld until vomiting has ceased. Many veterinarians employ antiemetics to lessen the signs and aid in the control of dehydration. Blood transfusions have been employed to increase the level of globulins, red blood cells and serum protein being lost via the bowel ¹s bloody diarrhea. Most recently, antitoxins and antiparvo serum are showing results. With hospitalization and vigorous support most dogs will survive severe cases of parvo virus. Early detection and aggressive therapy are the key to success.
Prevention of parvo virus is by vaccination. Modified live vaccines are the most effective and continue to be safe. Producing and effective level of protection requires frequent vaccination starting at 8 weeks of age and repeating every 3-4 weeks until the puppy is sixteen weeks old. Some investigators have suggested extending the protocol until 20-26 weeks because of the persistence of maternal antibody in the puppy which neutralizes the vaccine. Currently, annual revaccination is recommended. Recently, it has been suggested that repeated annual vaccination may also produce persistent antibody interference to the vaccination. After the initial puppy series and first annual revaccination, boosters in the future may be recommended triennial or less frequent. A change in vaccine protocol, until further research is done, is not recommended.
Pancreatitis
This is perhaps the most important of the reasons not to feed your pet human food: the fat content tends to be so high that your animal runs the risk of developing pancreatitis, or inflammation of the pancreas. This is a potentially lethal condition and not easily treatable. Digestive enzymes produced in the pancreas in an inactive state are activated prematurely and begin to digest the pancreatic organ itself. Unlike conditions such as obesity and choking (which you can observe), your pet could be sick with pancreatitis without your knowing. The symptoms, when they manifest, mimic other, often less threatening digestive disorders. The worst foods -- those most like to cause pancreatic problems -- are cheeses and pork products. If your dog were to eat a whole bowl of cheese dip, for instance, it is guaranteed to develop pancreatitis. A pet's digestive system, while perhaps geared towards eating rodents and feathers and such as we could never digest, is not suited to processing the high volumes of fat which we humans can deal with. Would your puppy love a bowl of cheese dip? You bet. Could it kill him? Unfortunately, the answer is yes.
Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog's reach.
Toxic People Foods
Mushrooms- abdominal pain, drooling, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting diarhea, convulsions, coma, death
Coffee/Cocoa- staggering, laboured breathing, vomiting, diarhea, abdominal pain, tremours, fever, heart rate increase, arrythmia, seizures, coma, death
Raisins Both grapes and raisins (raisins are dried grapes) can cause diarrhea, vomiting,, and kidney failure.
Onions A chemical in onions can damage a dogs� blood cells and can cause anemia. One small whole onion could very well be fatal.
Macadamia Nuts Never leave these exotic nuts lying around your house. A compound in them could leave your dog with temporary paralysis in his hind legs.
Sugarless gum A dog will eat gum every chance he gets. Anything with xylitol, a sugar alcohol can cause a rapid drop in blood sugar in dogs which can be deadly.
Chocolate contains a caffeine-like substance that can be toxic to dogs if to much is consumed. The substance is called obromine which is toxic to dogs. Baking chocolate and dark chocolate is especially dangerous. While it usually takes a somewhat large amount of chocolate to kill a dog, poisoning and death does occur with smaller amounts ingested. Signs of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, increased urination, and increased activity. This can progress to seizures and unusual heart rhythms. Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate. The darker the chocolate, the worse the effect will be. Some symptoms to watch for are excited behavior, increased urination, muscle tremors, seizures and a rapid heart rate. My friends puppy got into a box of "valentine chocolate". She panicked and called the vet...he told her to pour some peroxide down the pups throat to make the pup vomit to save it's life...it worked!......but ask your vet about this procedure before you think of doing it.
OTHER THINGS THAT CAN KILL YOUR BABY........................
Watch Batteries - If your dog ingests a watch battery, it can cause a potentially fatal ulceration in the stomach within 12 hours. All other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs as well. Symptoms of toxicity include drooling, lack of appetite, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has ingested a watch battery, contact your vet immediately.
Bleach- As you might imagine, household bleach is toxic to dogs. Keep all products containing bleach out of your dog's reach. Symptoms of bleach poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and abdominal pain. Do NOT induce vomiting if you suspect your dog has ingested bleach and contact your veterinarian immediately.
Moth Balls -Moth balls are very dangerous to dogs. They contain an insecticide that causes central nervous system excitement and seizures. When metabolized, ingestion of moth balls can lead to liver failure. Symptoms of poisoning by moth balls include vomiting and seizures. If your dog has consumed moth balls, do NOT induce vomiting. Seek veterinary care immediately.
Tylenol - As little as two regular strength Tylenol tablets can kill a small dog. Dogs lack the proper liver enzymes to break down acetaminophen. Signs of toxicity include drooling, lethargy, and abdominal pain. If you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol, call your veterinarian immediately.
Antifreeze -Many people do not realize it, but common antifreeze kills many pets each year. It smells and tastes very sweet to your dog and is very appealing to him. Ethylene glycol is toxic however, and each winter, many animals are killed by it. Symptoms of toxicity include seizures, vomiting, stumbling and lethargy leading to kidney failure. Make sure to keep your antifreeze out of your dog's reach. If you suspect that your dog has ingested antifreeze, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.
Fabric Softeners and other detergents: All sorts of household detergents are toxic to dogs at one level or another, but fabric softeners fall into the highly toxic category. Signs of toxicity include vomiting, lethargy, burns to the mouth, drooling, muscle weakness, and even coma. Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog has ingested any detergent. Contact your veterinarian immediately.
Mouthwash- can contain boric acid which is highly toxic to dogs. Symptoms of poisoning by mouthwash include vomiting, drooling, seizures, and coma. You should take your dog to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect poisoning by mouthwash or other household item containing boric acid like contact lens solution or denture cleaner.
Peach Pits - With most fruits, the pits and the seeds are toxic to dogs. Signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has eaten a peach pit or the pit or seeds of any fruit, take him to the veterinarian immediately.
Household Plants - Many common and popular household plants are highly toxic to dogs. A partial list of toxic plants includes poinsettias, lilies, ferns, devil's ivy, aloe, and ivy. Symptoms of poisoning due to ingestion of toxic plants include vomiting and central nervous system excitement. Many of these plants are fatal if ingested. Please contact your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten a toxic houseplant.
Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog's reach.
With diligence on our part, we can help prevent our dogs from getting into substances that are toxic to them. Many veterinary school websites offer lists of things that are toxic to dogs and what you should do if your dog ingests such things. As always, if you think your dog may have eaten something dangerous, contact your veterinarian immediately or take your dog to the closest emergency clinic.
Some of the above things listed come from Dog Article .........courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com
...Fleas...
This information may seem a little verbose, but to control fleas you must understand them.
Fleas are blood sucking parasites which spend 95% of their adult life on your pet. As many as 2000 eggs can be laid by the adult female flea within a few weeks. Eggs are laid on the pet, then they fall off into the carpet, grass, or similar areas. Fleas generally do not live for more than a few months, but reproduce quickly. A blood meal is required prior to egg laying. Fleas generally cannot live long without a blood meal, which means you will not find many adult fleas outside unless the pets stay outside to provide a source of blood. The adult flea comprises only 5% of the entire flea life cycle. Since the adult is the only one we see, imagine how many immature stages are in our house or yards that comprise the other 95%. Eighty five per cent of the immature stages are eggs and larvae. The other 10% is composed of the pupae which is much like a cocoon and is resistant to insecticides.
Most people concentrate on what they see, which is natural of course, but controlling only 5% of the total flea population will never get us anywhere. The solution to flea control is to concentrate on the eggs and larval stages before they develop the cocoon or pupae. The eggs and larvae need the correct amount of humidity, sunlight, and food source to survive. These facts help us to decide where these flea stages may hide. For instance, outside flea eggs and larvae can be found in the shaded, cooler areas. Examples are under tree limbs, bushes, dog pens, under decks ,etc. These immature stages generally cannot complete their development out in the sunny areas of your yard, so there is not point in using flea products in the middle of the sunny yard.
In the house, flea larvae and pupae will be deep in your carpet or just under the edge of furniture, not more than a few inches out of the light. Concentrating on flea control in carpeted areas is the most productive for indoor control. Also it is very important to use flea products on rugs or door mats (indoor and outdoor) where flea eggs may be deposited as the pets sits or stands on the rug.
If you see or feel fleas on you, they are usually the pre-emerging fleas which are the ones coming out of the pupae. Immature fleas can stay in the pupae stage for months until all the right conditions enable them to break out of their cocoon. Young fleas can be hopping and sucking blood within minutes after hatching out of the pupae stage. A common occurrence is when everyone goes on vacation for a few days to weeks then comes back to a warm house only to find that the house is infested with fleas. Actually what happens is that the vibration of people walking around triggers the hatching of the pupae. Usually when people see fleas on themselves it is the pre-emerging flea that has not found your dog or cat. Remember that fleas live most of their life on our pets, they prefer pets over us, so if we find fleas on us, we can believe that we really have problems with immature fleas, eggs, larvae, and pupae. Just killing the adult flea will not solve the problem.
It is also important to remember that not seeing fleas on your pet does not rule them out. We know that cats can groom as many as 75% of the fleas off their body in one day. Sometimes you can see flea dirt, which looks like small curled black specks. This flea dirt is actually flea waste material and is composed primarily of dried blood. When pets are washed they can actually have so much "flea dirt" on them that it may seem as if the pet is bleeding due to the dissolving dried blood.
Products that control fleas are many and varied. Most contact kill products contain pyrethrins or permethrin chemicals. These chemicals are commonly found in pet flea shampoos, mousse products, some dips, and many flea sprays. These products usually do not work but a few minutes and long lasting activity into the next day is poor to none. The best way to control fleas is to use an adulticide ( products that kill adult fleas) and an IGR or insect growth regulator. These products not only kill the adult flea but also prevent the development of eggs into larvae and finally into pupae. Veterinarians are very knowledgeable about fleas and they should be consulted with questions concerning the effectiveness and safety of all flea products.
Some of the newer products to be available to veterinarians for the use on pets have been very effective at not only killing adults fleas but slowing the development of the life cycle. One such product is a monthly pill for dogs and an oral liquid for cats. Promises are that there will soon be an injectable product that will last for six months to help control fleas. Infomercials have also made us aware of a new product that is applied on the skin once a month to dogs and cats. This products is said to kill 95% of the fleas within 24 hours. Another spray product will kill fleas for three months and ticks for one month with just one application. The spray can also be used on cats but will only last for one month on fleas.
I use FRONTLINE SPRAY.
Ticks
Ticks are very common in south Georgia. The most common ticks found in that area are the Deer Tick, Brown Dog Tick, and American Dog Tick. Ticks can be found almost anywhere, but primarily in grass, woods, or bushy areas. You generally do not see the tick when they crawl onto you or your pet but soon the tick has imbedded its mouth parts into your skin and becomes firmly attached until it is removed.
Dogs, cats, and humans are commonly affected by ticks. Since dogs frequent the areas tick live, they are the most affected. Ticks attach themselves to the skin in pursuit of a blood meal. Late spring, summer, and early fall are the times of the year we see most tick infestations. Some ticks can live up to two years, survive temperatures below freezing and lay up to 5,000 eggs.
Ticks are important not only to dogs and cats but to humans as well, for ticks can transmit diseases that can be harmful or even fatal to pets and humans. The most common tick transmitted diseases in our area are Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Canine Ehrlichiosis, Ehrlichiosis in Humans, and Human Granulocytic Ehrlichosis. By far the most common condition seen in our area is Tick Paralysis. Some dogs are especially sensitive to a toxin (poison) found in the saliva of the tick. This toxin paralyzes the nervous system to the point that the dog can no longer walk. Most cases are treatable and recovery is usually uneventful. However, in some cases the dogs become over heated due to their inability to get out of the sun, or can be injured if near the road. Deaths have been seen as an indirect cause from Tick Paralysis.
Ticks are difficult to kill and many products that claim to have an effect on ticks do an ineffective job. Special tick collars, sprays and topically applied chemicals are used to control ticks. Before using any product against ticks it is best to consult our office or call your regular veterinarian for specific instructions.
Since humans can also get diseases from ticks it is best not to remove the tick with you bare fingers. The use of tweezers or special inexpensive tick removal devices are the best way to remove ticks. Removing ticks incompletely may allow portions of the mouth parts or head of the tick to remain attached to the skin. Infections and scar tissue that may never go away can be the result of ineffective tick removal.
Spaying & Neutering
If you are a responsible caring dog owner, there are many very good reasons to consider spaying and neutering your dog(s), and very few good reasons not to.
- Prevents prostate and testicular cancer (dogs).
- Prevents Pyometra, a serious and potentially fatal infection of the uterus, most commonly seen in unspayed females 6+ years of age.
- Greatly reduces the rate of uterine and breast cancer (in females) when done before the first (or second) esterus cycle.
- Reduces inter-male aggression (dogs).
- Reduces dominance aggression towards people (dogs).
- Reduces urinary "marking" (of vertical objects such as furniture.)
- Reduces "mounting" behavior, and sexual frustration.
- Reduces roaming.
- Prevents false pregnacies (females).
- Prevents unwanted litters. (It is truly amazing what some dogs will do in order to mate with a female dog who comes into "season". Some dogs will dig under fences to get to another dog, while some have even managed to mate through chain link fences!)
- Prevents neighborhood dogs from camping outside your home waiting for the opportunity to mate with your female dog.
- Keeps you from having to keep your dogs away from playing and socializing with other dogs for a total of six weeks each year.
Pyometra
Pyometra is the most serious uterine infection that a female dog can contract. It is potentially life-threatening. The serious complications caused by pyometra cause most medical professionals to expect morbidity and mortality despite appropriate treatment.
Most people think that bacteria originating in the uterus is the cause of pyometra. Actually hormonal responses change the environment in the uterus. The hormone progesterone stimulates the increase of secretions in the endometrial glands. The accumulated fluid in the uterus provides a wonderful media for bacterial growth. The environmental change in the uterus may be caused by a hormonal imbalance, retained placenta, or occur 2-3 weeks after the beginning of the estrus cycle, during breeding, or during the whelping process. Bacteria colonizes the fluid-filled uterus. The result is the development of pyometra. The bacterial invasion is thought to originate from bacteria in the vagina.
Some sources believe that the condition is most prevalent four to six weeks after estrus. It seems to be more common in older female (over 5 years) but there are cases that have been recorded in females contracting pyometra after their very first estrus. Close observation of the bitch during the two month period after she has been in heat seems to be wise.
Pyometra is classified as open or closed infection. Open pyometra is usually easier to diagnose. There will be evidence of discharge from the vulva that MAY appear like blood-tinged pus. There may or may not be odor. A female with a closed infection may be near septic shock before the symptoms are obvious. She may really be like a dead dog walking. A terrible description but very true!
SIGNS OF PYOMETRA:
LETHARGY
LACK OF APPETITE
DRINKING AND URINATING EXCESSIVELY
VOMITING
DEHYDRATION
FEVER(20 % OF CASES)
SHOCK
ABDOMINAL DISTENTION AND/OR TENDERNESS
I recommend that a female be spayed for this reason.
Housebreaking & Crate Training
A rule of thumb about size if you're using the crate for housetraining: the crate should only be big enough for the dog to comfortably stand up and turn around in. You don't want the crate so big that the dog will mess at one end and sleep at the other. For large-sized breeds that will continue to grow substantially, you may need to buy a larger size later on if you intend for your dog to continue using the crate after it is housetrained. (If you already have bought the size crate you think your dog will fit into when grown...and it's too large for your puppy now....just put a plastic container in the back of the box (or stuffed animal or pillow) so that puppy only has sleeping room. When pup is finally grown (or housebroken) you can remove the plastic container, animal or pillow). I tell my customers to get a larger one ...it's always better to get the larger one...than one that's too small.
I recommend the 26" x 18 1/2 x 16" size
Crate training is one of the most efficient and effective ways to train a dog. The single most important aspect of dog and puppy training is that you reward and praise your dog or puppy each and every time she does the right thing. For example: praise her when she chews her own toys instead of the couch or eliminates outside instead of in the house. The more time you spend with your puppy or dog, the quicker and easier it will be to train her. ( the more toys your puppy has, decreases the chances of things that belong to YOU being chewed up)
The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits.
It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your dog is housetrained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere. Confine her to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or utility room that has water/stain resistant floors. Confinement is NOT crate training.
What is Crate Training? Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far more important aspect of crate training.
If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released, i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area, ( the wire cage (below) is excellent for when you are NOT home...pup can see out and has plenty of room to play in while you are gone). The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home, (night-time is what I use my crate for). Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents During Training If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to develop bladder and bowel control.
It's best to check with your vet before giving any human medication to pets.
If your dog is killing off the grass with its wee, feed it cooked mashed pumpkin, it takes some of the acid out of the wee which is causing the dead patches.
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Anemia:
Feeding your pet foods high in iron and B vitamins will help this problem. A serving of liver once a day is sufficient: 1 oz. for cats, 2 oz. for small dogs, 3 oz. for medium dogs, 4 oz. for large dogs.
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Animals In Heat:
Your pet's affectionate (and sometimes annoying) actions are demands for attention, so give them more than usual. The strong smell of Vicks VapoRub ointment may help keep roaming males away: rub a little in the fur around the vagina on females and above the nose on males. Keep the windows closed; a male cat can smell a female in heat a mile away, while a dog's range is about three miles. Get your pet spayed/neutered.
If you are planning on breeding your female, never bathe her until the ties have taken place. Washing the scent away confuses the male to the point that he won't breed....the smell has to be there.
Dog in heat, dripping blood on bedclothes? Soak bedclothes, sheets or whatever, in Peroxide...WORKS WONDERS!!! (also works on human blood stains & other stains)...I always keep a spray bottle of this in my laundry room.
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Arthritis:
For overweight pets, losing weight will help lighten the load on those achy joints. A 20 minute walk several times a day can reduce the progression of arthritis. If it's cold outside, let them sleep inside. Make sure they are provided with soft bedding to reduce discomfort. Moist heat applied for 20 minutes twice a day can be a great comfort.
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Artificial Respiration and CPR
Artificial Respiration
To start your dog to breathing again you will need to do mouth-to-nose respiration. The dog's mouth should be sealed tightly closed using two hands, then the person's mouth should be placed firmly around the dog's nose. With gentle blowing into the nose for several seconds eight to ten times per minute, the dog may begin to breathe on it's own.
Once the dog starts breathing you should get the animal to your veterinarian.
CPR
If your dog's not breathing and it's heart is not beating, you will want to try CPR.
CPR is a combination of heart massage and artificial respiration.
The dog should be put on it's right side on a hard surface. The animal's airway should be cleared by pulling out her tongue and checking inside her mouth and throat before beginning.
First, mouth-to-nose resuscitation should be performed. (see above)
If there is still no heartbeat, heart message can be performed. A dog's heart is located in the chest just behind her front legs.
With pressure appropriate for the dog's size, the heels of both hands should compress the dog's chest and then release it. This should be repeated rapidly, six to ten times, then mouth-to-nose resuscitation repeated.
If no pulse is felt the process may be repeated, but if no positive results are seen after about ten minutes the process is probably not going to work.
If possible while performing the CPR you should have someone trying to obtain veterinary help.
Asthma:
Keep pets with asthma free of excess weight; overweight animals have a harder time breathing. Use a humidifier; dry air irritates the airway. If you, the owner, smokes, stop! Keep them indoors during pollen season. For cats, use a dust-free kitty litter.
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Bad Breath:
A foul odor coming from your pet's mouth is a sign of plaque. Prevent this by brushing your pets teeth, feeding them a raw turkey neck or raw carrots; don't feed them canned food or table scraps, and get them a rope to play with. Your vet can also thoroughly clean your pet's teeth (some vets put your dog to sleep to do this.....I wont let this be done to my dogs).
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BATH
Add a few drops of vinegar to your dogs� bath water. This will keep his coat smelling sweet. No more bad smells or unhygienic odor. This is an easy and effective home remedy for a common problem.
Too much bathing won't suit your dog
The only time to bathe your dog is when he's dirty, or on the advice of your veterinary . The ideal time to bathe your dog is every 6-8 weeks. Overdo it and you'll strip his coat of all the natural oils that protect him against the cold and wet. Only bathe him in fine weather or indoors to avoid the cold ....( you can use a mild human shampoo). NEVER use a domestic detergent or disinfectant, as this will harm his skin. Scented baby wipes are a great way of cleaning your puppy/dog without drying out the skin from too much bathing ! Also, if your dog has been outside and comes back in with that "doggy smell"...there are several colognes made just for your pet. A fabric dryer sheet rubbed over your dogs body will also take away that "doggy scent". That "doggy smell" is the actual scent of the dirt in your yard. After giving you dog a bath clean it's ears out with alcohol on q-tips to remove and water left in ears.
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Broken Bones:
Immobilize your pet while holding him still and place him on a board, car floor mat, or a folded blanket. Do not attempt to bandage or splint broken limbs as you can cause more damage. Take your pet to the vet immediately.
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CATS
Cats in trees, will more than likely come down on their own. Leave them alone to make their way down. Give them an entire day to do so. Tempt them with their favorite strong-smelling food. If the cat is injured, wearing a leash that could choke them, or hasn't come down in a day, you need to climb up and get them, whether up the tree itself, or with a ladder. Grab them by the skin on the back of the neck and make your first attempt at reaching them a good one - they may flee further up the tree. The Human Society may be able to assist you if you are not able to reach the cat yourself.
Cats in the house? And refuse to use a litter box? But like the carpet better? Here is a trick I learned and it works. Keeps Kitty from using the carpet as a litter box.
Place long stips of heavy duty aluminum foil on areas cleaned throughly where kitty has marked it's spot.
The noise of the foil turns kitty away. Tin foil is also good for keeping/training kitty not to jump on counters or particular furniture.
How to keep your cats from using your inside floor plants as a litter box.
I had a problem with my cat using my inside plants as a litter box. Didn't matter that the litter box was clean, the cat just wanted to go in my plants, getting dirt all over the floor and making a huge mess. Not to mention that my plants suffered from it.
Put tin foil on top of the dirt around the plant/tree. make sure you cover all of the dirt that you can see or get to. Leave just enough room so you can still water the plant. This worked 100% for me. My cat stopped using my plants as a litter box and finally my inside banana trees started growing.
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Car Sickness:
Most animals travel best on an empty stomach, so pick up their food 6-8 hours before travel. However, some pets prefer to have a small amount of food in their stomachs. See what works best for your animal. Other ways to reduce sickness includes letting them sit in the front seat, allowing them to look out the windows, and cracking the windows to allow fresh air to flow inside the vehicle. Most of the time after 4-5 short trips a dog gets used to riding.....
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CHEWING FURNITURE
To deter a puppy from chewing furniture legs, wipe the legs with a little clove oil. The puppy will stop chewing them. The furniture will stay safe and sound while the puppy learns to use something else.
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Choking:
Open your pet's mouth to see if you can visualize the object and remove it. If you are unsuccessful, take your pet to the vet immediately. If your pet is not breathing and you can't find what's obstructing the air passage, try the Heimlich maneuver: Hold your pet against you and clasp your hand around his upper abdomen OR place your pet on their side, on the floor and put one of your hands on top of the other so that the bottom hand is just below the rib cage. Push or lift upward to dislodge the object.
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CONSTIPATION
If constipation is mild, not associated with other symptoms and doesn't last for 48 hours here are a few things you can do.
1.Feed your dog dry dog food. Dry dog food has more bulk than canned dog foods.
2.Water and bran (up to 5 tablespoons daily) added to the food may help.
3.You can try commercial preparations containing psylluim; (such as Metamucil) they are designed for humans and are sold in drugstores.
Metamucil dosage: 1/2 teaspoon twice a day to small pets and about 2 teaspoons twice a day to large dogs. Try mixing it with a small portion of canned food. Give your pet access to plenty of water.
4.Mix a tablespoon or two of canned pumpkin with your dogs pet food for several days or until the constipation has ended.
5.Milk will sometimes relieve constipation. Give 1/8 cup twice a day to small dogs and 1/2 cup twice a day to larger dogs.
6.Mineral oil (1 tablespoon per 10 pounds) will sometimes relieve more severe constipation. Do not use this all of the time as mineral oil will interfer with the absorption of oil-soluable vitamins.
Mineral oil should only be put in food and not forced orally.
If your dog has reaccuring bouts of constipation take the dog to your veterinarian.
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Coprophagy (Stool Eating)
You should let a young dog know that coprophagy is not acceptable by voicing "no" in a firm and disgusted manner.
While working to change the behaviour, it is critical that the dog not have the opportunity to eat stool when unsupervised and you'll need to clean up the animal's stool immediately after he or she defecates.
1.Dietary changes may help. Allowing free access to food, adding good quality proteins such as eggs and cottage cheese.
2.Your dog could (BUT NOT A FACT) be lacking certain vitamins or minerals in their diet. Try adding a multivitamin to his/her food.
....SOME DOGS WILL DO THIS NO MATTER WHAT FOOD THEY EAT.
3.Adding the enzyme papain to the food will also sometimes prevent coprophagy. This can be done at home by sprinkling meat tenderizer containing papain on food.
4.Try sprinkling the waste with cayenne pepper. This will take the fun out of eating waste. Or better yet if you are able to clean up after your pet immediately after a bowel movement this will remove the temptation.
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Diarrhea:
Ensure your pet is drinking enough fluids. In addition to their water bowl, a bowl of Gatorade� will further help. Stop feeding for 24 hours from the onset of the diarrhea. When your pet is ready to eat again, try 2 parts cooked white rice mixed with 1 part boiled hamburger or skinless white meat chicken, feeding small amounts every 4 hours for 2 days. Slowly introduce their regular food back into the diet. If the diarrhea doesn't subside, seek the advise of your veterinarian. It may be caused by intestinal parasites or something more serious.
Do not feed your dog for twelve to twenty-four hours following a bout of diarrhea. Then you can offer a very small amount of soft, bland food such as cooked rice and skinless chicken breast, pasta, or potatoes mixed with low-fat cottage cheese (9-to1 ratio). Feed only small meals three or four times a day. Make the return to normal food a normal diet gradually over about a week's time by mixing in small quantities of the normal food with the bland diet.
Withholding food for 24 hours from very small dogs or puppies may lead to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and is dangerous. In this instance, withhold food for several hours and administer small amounts of honey, Karo syrup, or sugar water frequently during the period of food withdrawal.
You can give your dog Kaopectate, one teaspoon each ten pounds of weight every four hours.
You can also give these medications-
Pepto-Bismol- 1/4 teaspoonful per ten pounds of body weight every 6-8 hours.
Immodium- 0.5 milligrams per 10 pounds of body weight every six to eight hours.
If the diarrhea has not cleared up in 48 hours you will need to seek treatment for your dog from your veterinarian. Persistent or bloody diarrhea are the signs of serious illnesses and can quickly lead to death.
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Dry Skin and Dander It's best to check with your vet before giving any human medication to pets.
Dry Skin and Dander
1. You can use diluted Murphy's soap to bathe your dog if your dog suffers from dry skin, dander or even some allergies. The Murphy's soap will clean your dog as well as soothe it's skin. Always be sure to rinse the dog well.
2. If you suspect a deficiency of essential fatty acids you can supplement the diet with 1 teaspoon to 1 1/2 teaspoons (no more) per pound of dry food or poulty drippings, lard, bacon fat, or vegetable oil (safflower, corn, soybean, or cottonseed oil are good).
Canned foods containing 2%-3.5% fat can have fat added at about 1 tablespoon per pound can. Soft or moist foods containing more than 6% fat should not have fat added.
Fat should only supply 5%-20% of the diet's calories. Do not increase the fat content so that fat supplies more than 40% of the daily caloric requirment as this may induce other nutritional deficiences by lower total food consumption, so beware.
Skin improvement is usually seen in about 1-2 months.
Primary (idiopathic) Seborrhea (dog's equivalent of dandruff)
This can be controlled (not cured) by frequent, regular bathing every 3 to 7 days with speical medicated shampoos that contain ingredients such as antiseptics, salicylic acid, coal tar and sulfur. In general, dry scales respond best to a mild, hypoallergenic, emollient shampoo followed by an emollient rinse. (example: bath oil, one capful to 1-2 quarts of water. ) Greasy types are best managed with products containing antiseptic degreasers such as benzoyl peroxide and drying agents such as sulfur, salicylic acid, or selenium disulfide. You can use some human antidandruff shampoos, but it is safest to obtain an antiseborrheic shampoo designed for dogs from your veterinarian as some formulations for people can be irritating to some dog's skin.
If regular bathing and good flea control does not help within a month then see your veterinarian.
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EAR INFECTIONS
You can try a few different home remedies if your dog has reaccuring ear infections. First it is best to be sure that your dog does have an ear infection by having him/her checked out by your veterinarian.
The first remedy is 1/3 tea tree oil solution. 2/3 olive oil or any other light, non-toxic oil for the solution.
The second is 70% isopropyl alcohol, 10% povidone-iodine solution, or 0.5% chlorhexidine solution.
When using either of the remedies be sure to clean out the affected ear thoroughly with a rubber bulb syringe (being careful not to wedge the syringe in the ear, causing pressure to build up that can rupture the ear drum) filled with a warm antiseptic soap solution. Then you'll need to instill several drops of either of the rememdies mentioned above. If you see improvement 3-4 days, continue the treatment for two weeks. If no improvement.....seek professional help.
An easy home remedy to *prevent* ear infections (will not cure an existing one) is:
2 Tablespoons Boric Acid
4 oz Rubbing Alcohol
1 Tablespoon Glycerine
Shake well. Put 1 small eyedropperfull in each ear. Rub it around first, and then let the dog shake. Do this once a week and you shouldn't see any ear infections. It works by raising the pH level slightly inside the ear, making it less hospitable to bacteria.
Another treatment is the "Blue Powder Ear Treatment
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Ear Mites:
You can temporarily treat the ear mites by soaking a cotton ball with mineral oil and swabbing the ear canal. Then, seek the assistance of your veterinarian for treatment with Ivermectin.
Or.....- Try a few drops of mineral oil twice a day for 1-2 weeks. The mites can't breath and will smother to death.
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Expressing the Anal Glands Use one hand to hold up the dog's tail and pull it gently toward the head. Hold a disposable cloth or tissue in the other hand.
Place your thumb externally over one anal gland and your fingers over the other.
Press in and apply firm pressure as you pull your fingers posteriorly over the glands. The glands should empty out into your tissue.
If that didn't work empty each sac separately. Place your thumb externally over the sac and your gloved index finge over the same gland inside the rectum, then compress the sac between your thumb and finger.
Normal anal sac fluid should come out slightly yellow or brown in color.
Impacted sacs will be very difficult to express and the material may be pasty in texture and colored gray or black.
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FEVER & PAIN
Normal temperatures of cats and dogs ranges from 100.5 and 102.5 degrees. Sooth away the heat with a cool compress on their belly or a 10 minute cool bath. Ensure they are drinking enough water. Consult your vet, as fever can mean serious illness and/or infection.
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FISH HOOK REMOVAL
The only way to remove a fishhook once the barb passes through the skin is to cut the curved part of the hook just below the barb and pull the rest of the hook back out through the original hole.
Often this is too painful and you will have to let a veterinarian do it.
Unless, the hook was extremely clean the wound could get infected so antibiotics are a good idea
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Fleas:
Though a preventative such as Advantage� , Frontline� , Revolution�, or K9 Advantix� is the best way to treat and prevent fleas, a diet including Brewer's Yeast and garlic prove to keep them away, as well. Flea collars, powders, and dips only work temporarily; don't consider them for long-term use or you'll find the fleas returnin.
Want to catch fleas running loose in your home....
Small white dish (flea's love white) a little water and a touch of dawn (deadly to them ya know) and place it under a night light....while you sleep they die....it's like your own little flea zapper....I flipped the first time I used it. Figure out the worst area in your home and that's the BEST area to set your trap!
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To get fleas off your pet, try bathing them in Dawn dish washing liquid. It kills the fleas it comes in contact with. Borax works in the carpet. Works for roaches too. Advantage works to help keep the fleas off, but Dawn will kill most, if not all, fleas.
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For fleas in your carpet: Sprinkle table salt on the carpet and leave a few days. Vacuum up. This will kill the fleas in the carpet and will thus lead to flea-free pets.
2 parts tea tree oil and 1 part water mixed in a bowl and sponged all over your pet is supposed to kill fleas. Don't try to drip it all over them, just sponge it on...too much might hurt the animal. I suppose it can't help if the fleas are all in the house unless you get rid of them in the house also, so you should probably try other remedies like Borax laundry detergent.
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To help with fleas on your dogs: take a new spray bottle and fill half of it with apple cider vineger and half with warm tap water. Shake well and spray on the dog's coat. Rub it in good. No need to rinse, just let it dry, and use it daily or as needed.
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Brewer's yeast or desiccated liver will help get rid of fleas and promote a healthy coat.
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Dandruff shampoo makes an excellent flea bath...Head & Shoulders Shampoo.... really does work! (I have tried this).
Johnson's Baby Shampoo works for flea's.
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FLEAS: Borax laundry soap. Vacuum your carpet really good. Then sprinkle the Borax over your carpet. Use a broom and work it down into the fibers of your carpet really good. Don't vacuum for a week unless you have to. The fleas will eat the Borax. It will cause them to dehydrate and die. Repeat the process every week or so for a month. It really works, it's cheap and it is safe to use if you have small children.
In case your dog is suffering from the common problem of ticks or fleas then I suggest the following home remedy. Grind a few orange rinds to a paste and apply on fur. Keep on for, four to five hours and see the ticks and fleas vanish. Easy isn�t it? This remedy is effective in most case and is easy to make and apply. It is completely herbal and also safe for most dogs.
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Flatulence:
Exercise helps move gas out of the system, so take them for a walk. Stop feeding table scraps and dairy foods and ensure they aren't getting into the trash. Check the soy content of your pet's food; high soy content causes gas. Many yogurts contain digestion-friendly bacteria that can help decrease flatulence. Give 1/4 tsp. plain yogurt to cats and small dogs, 1 tsp. to dogs 15-20 pounds, and 1 Tbls. to large dogs. Raise their food dish to eliminate air digested while eating.
1. One way to lower your pet's temperature is with cool-water compresses. Soak a washcloth with cool water and pat his/her belly.
2. A cool bath for five to ten minutes will help bring fever down.
3. If your dog has a fever or minor aches you can give him buffered aspirin.You can give one-quarter of a 325-milligram tablet for every ten pounds once or twice a day, best taken on a full stomach. Never give acetaminophen (Tylenol) or ibuprofen (Advil).
If your pet's fever last more than 24 hours or is over 103 F. then you will need to seek veterinary treatment for him/her.
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FLIES & MAGGOTS
Flies
Biting flies cause irritation and scab formation along the ear edges of dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors.
If your dog has this problem, an application of commercial antifly ointments designed for horses' ears can help.
Maggots
Remove the maggots from the wound or infected area and wash the area with an antibacterial soap like Betadine. Apply a topical antibiotic cream like Mycitracin to treat any secondary bacterial infection that may be present.
It is very important to treat the wound or infection so that the area will not become reinfested with maggots.
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Frostbite and Hypothermia
If veterinary care is available do not attempt home care.
Wrap your pet in a blanket, (with a hot water bottle if possible) or whatever other insulator is handy, to retain any remaining body warmth and rush to your veterinarian.
If a veternarian is not available this is what you must do.
If frostbite is unaccompainied by signs of hypothermia, treatment is directed at the injured areas only.
Do not run the area but apply moist heat by immersing the part in warm water (102-104 degrees) or by applying warm moist towels.
Rapid return of sensation, pink color, and warmth to the skin indicate successful treatment.
If the dogs' temperature is above 86 degrees, simple home treatment for hypothermia is often successful.
Bring the pet into a warm room and cover him or her. Warm water bottles placed inside a blanket wrapped around the dog help speed up rewarming.
Be sure to rewarm the fluids as soon as their temperature drops below 100 degrees. This can be done in a microwave.
Electric heating pads may also be used if they are well insulated with a towel to keep from burning your dog.
An electric blanket can be used as long as you are supervising the animal and therefore do not let him get burned.
Immersion into warm water (102-104 degrees) can also be done, but only if there is a hair drier or heater available to prevent rechilling upon removal from the water.
The body temperature should be maintained just above 100 degrees until the body can maintain it's temperature and the animals temperature turns to normal.
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Hairballs:
First try a commercial hairball lubricant or a tsp. of petroleum jelly. Sometimes, high-fiber diets accelerate the passage of hairballs. Keep fleas under control to reduce licking. Brush your cat often, then follow with wiping the coat with a moist towel to pick up any loose hairs.
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HAIR SHEDDING
A common problem in households having pets is the falling hair that keeps sticking and adhering to various articles. To pick up the pets hair, from a blanket or furnishing fabric, wet a sponge and run it over the article. The hair will stick to the damp sponge and the article will look as good as new.
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Heatstroke and Heat Exhaustion Leaving your dog in a parked car in the summer (even with the window left a few inches open), can cause heatstroke within minutes.
Be aware that leaving your dog in a car parked in the shade does not assure that your dog will not become seriously overheated.
Shaded cars may still get very hot due to the the greenhouse effect, and the sun may also move enough to change shaded areas into sunny ones.
Dogs left in parked cars also at risk of being harrassed or stolen.
Heat exhaustion is often caused by over-exercising or running with a dog during hot weather.
Both heatstroke and heat exhaustion can result in brain damage, heart failure or even death in a short period of time.
Short muzzel and thick-coated breeds and mixes are particularly vulnerable, although any breed may be at risk.
Always bring cool water along when walking, running or hiking with your dog during hot weather.
To cool off an overheated dog, offer him plenty of water, then wet the dog's body and paws with cool water, then fan.
A dog's normal internal body temperature is between 100.5 degrees F and 02 degrees F.
If the dog experiences heatstroke or heat exhaustion, he should receive veterinary attention as soon as possible.
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HOT SPOTS
Keep It Clean
Clean the area with an antibacterial soap like phisoderm or any mild, nonperfumed soap.
Another way to keep it clean is to dab it with a cotton swab soaked in an antiseptic solution such as Betadine Solution.
If you can trim the hair away from the spot it will help you keep the spot clean.
Remedies
1. 2 Adult Aspirin
1 Tablespoon Rubbing Alcohol
1 Tea Bag [made into 1 cup of warm water]
Dissolve aspirin in alcohol; add to cup of tea. Let cool. Clip hair around spot. Apply to area with cotton ball. Follow with over-the-counter cortisone spray or creme. Repeat as necessary.
2. Soak a cotton ball in cooled, brewed "black tea". It's contains tannic acid which helps to dry up the area, and aid in healing.
3. Burow's Solution (aluminum acetate) three times a day will keep the area dry and promote healing. Burow's solution is available in pharmacies.
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Ease the Inflammation
1. Apply a thin layer of hydrocortisone cream. 1% concentration, twice daily.
2. Apply vitamin E gel (buy the capsules and open them) to the hot spot twice a day.
3. Apply the gel from an aloe vera plant.
If the hot spot has not improved in 24 hours you should call a veterinarian. Hot spots can turn into dangerous bacterial infections.
For dogs breeds that commonly get hotspots (oozy sores that appear overnight, get rapidly larger, and cause hair to fall out--all for no apparent reason and more common in hot, humid summers), such as labs, bird dogs, and pugs, you can visit the vet, buy the tube of ointment and treat it for two weeks or more before it slowly disappears or you can try this remedy: Take sulfur powder (also called flour of sulfur and available at the pharmacy) and mix it with enough rubbing alcohol to form a thick paste. Cake it onto the affected area of your dog and leave it there until it dries and falls off on its own. Do this for two days. It will sting the dog when it is first applied, but it goes away. The sore will dry up, heal, and hair will regrow. The cost is very cheap--less than 10 cents per treatment.
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Inflamation of the Skin of the Foot
Pododermatitis
Inflammation of the skin of the foot is when the web of the foot in the affected areas is reddened and usually moist from fluid leakage and licking. It may be swollen and the dog may be limping.
Home treatment:
First make sure the dog does not have a foreign body in it's foot. If you find a foreign body remove it and the pododermatitis may improve quickly.
If it doesn't improve wash the foot with a gentle antiseptic soap (example: chlorhexidine, povidone-iodine) followed by thorough drying and soaking it in warm water for 15 minutes twice a day.
Try to prevent your dog from licking the area.
The application of a soothing hydrocortisone ointment usually helps clear up the condition rapidly. You can get a product of this type over the counter at your local drugstore.
If the inflammation and/or soreness persists longer than 48 hours you should take your dog to a veterinarian.
Be aware that prolonged use of corticosteriod ointments in any but the most simple conditions confounds diagnosis, aggravates certain conditions, and interferes with healing.
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Insect Stings 1. If sting is on a flat part of the skin easily seen, apply a freshly sliced onion or a cold compress for a few minutes.
2. Give your dog benydryl.1 to 2 mg per pound body weight.
3. Other ways to help your pet deal with a minor insect sting is to apply a paste of baking soda and water to the bite or sting several times a day. You can also use milk of magnesia and apply it directly to the bite to help reduce the itching and the irritation.
Removing the Stinger
If your pet is stung by a bee, wasp or hornet and you see the stinger, do not use your fingers or tweezers to remove stinger as it will squeeze more poison into the wound.
Holding a dull knife perpendicularly to the skin, scrape across area of sting a few times, this will grab the stinger and release it without pain. Put some calamine on the area once removed.
Severe Reaction
If your pet is stung in the mouth, nose or tongue, remove the stinger if you can and then watch your pet carefully. If your pet is stung at 10:00 and at 10:10 the swelling is big, then they are having a severe reaction to the sting and you should take your pet to see your veterinarian immediately.
A severe reaction to a sting can lead to difficulty in breathing and possibly death.
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ITCHING
It is best to find out the source of the itch and treat it.
You can relieve your pet's itch with calomine lotion or an over the counter spray or lotion corticosteroid.
Sometimes adding vitamins such as vitamin C, Vitamin E, selenium and zinc will help (ask your veterinarian for the correct dose for your dog) or adding one teaspoon of safflower oil to your dog's food daily
Don't rule out the possibility of allergies or the mange as a cause of your pet's itch or some underlying health problem.
Itchy Skin from Allergies:
Give your pet a 10 minute cool bath to relieve itching. For further soothing, you may also add colloidal oatmeal (Aveeno�) to the bathwater. For dogs with itchy feet, fill the tub with enough cool water to cover their feet, dissolve a couple cups of Epsom salts in the water, and soak the dog's feet for 5-10 minutes. Be careful not to let them drink the water.
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Kitty Litter:
To keep cat litter fresh smelling, mix baby powder in with the litter.
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Lameness Due to
Soft Tissue Injury
If your dog has a mild to moderate lameness due to soft tissue injury, enforced rest is the best treatment, and it should result in rapid improvement in 2-7 days.
Ice packs and aspirin can be used to relieve inflammation and discomfort.
You can give one-quarter of a 325-milligram tablet of aspirin for every ten pounds once or twice a day, best taken on a full stomach. Never give acetaminophen (Tylenol) or ibuprofen (Advil).
Consult your veterinarian in more severe cases.
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LOW BLOOD SUGAR
With low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) first aid treatment can help. Honey, syrup, or sugar water may reverse the problem for a puppy that begins to become confused or weak due to lack of eating properly, but only if it is given at the first signs of a problem, before collapse or seizures occur.
If a diabetic dog that has had too much insulin and shows signs of weakness is given sugar promptly, it can prevent further problems from developing.
Dosage depends on the size of the dog. Approximately a tablespoon given a little at a time is probably enough for a small dog, more for a larger dog.
Do not give anything orally if a dog is unconscious.
A veterinary checkup should be given once the dog is stabilized.
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MANGE ON DOGS
Dog Mange: 1% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide. You get this with a 3% Solution bottle from Wal-Mart poured into a container then fill the bottle with water twice and add to the same bucket. One part 3% Hydrogen Peroxide and 2 parts water equal a 1% solution. The water dilutes the 3% solution to 1% solution. Now put in borax until it won't dissolve any more and you're done. Borax is not a laundry soap it is a chemical (boric acid mostly) and is used as a laundry booster. Its cheap and available at Wal-mart as well. It won't hurt the dog...at all. There are some kennels that suggest a dose in the food (I think this is unwise) but the borax bath is harmless....it kills the fleas as well. Hope this helps .....
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MATTED COAT
Dogs of any breed with coats one inch or longer must have regular grooming to prevent mat formation. Severe mats cause painful pulling of the skin, and mats often provide a place for parasites such as fleas and maggots to hide.
Use Cornstarch... sprinkle the cornstarch onto the mat (not too much), then pull the mat apart with your fingers. Start at the end's of the hair, dividing the mat in half, quarter etc. When finished breaking up the mat, run a comb through it for a nice finish.
If the mat becomes too large you may have to cut it away with scissors or clippers.
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Milk Replacement - Baby Milk
1 can Pet brand condensed milk
1 can water
2 egg yolks (broken and strained from sac)
1 Tablespoon Karo syrup
Break the egg yolks and hold onto the sac... it stops up the bottle nipples.
This formula will work with all kinds of critters.
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MINOR BURNS
In a superficial burn, the hair will remain firmly attached. If you pull on the hair in the area of the burn and it comes out easily, the burn is deeper and more serious. Seek a veterinarian's care.
Immediate treatment of thermal burns consists of applying cold water or ice compresses for twenty minutes.
The affected area should then be washed with povidone-iodine or chlorhexidine disinfectant. Neomycin-polymixin B-bacitracin cream can then be applied topically if the burn is minor.
Deep burns or burns covering a large area need emergency veterinary treatment.
It is a good idea to have all burns examined by a veterinarian within 24 hours of the injury.
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Motion Sickness and Vomiting
Some dogs become nauseated and vomit when they ride in cars. The first sign of nausea is usually excessive drooling.
If the car is stopped and the dog is exercised at this point, the signs often subside and the trip can be resumed for at least a short time. Most young dogs with this problem seem to outgrow it, particularly if they are taken for short but frequent automobile rides.
Home Remedy
If your dog is prone to motion sickness, avoid feeding for eight hours before traveling, stop for frequent exercise, and be sure there is adequate ventilation in the vehicle.
If these measures aren't sufficient to prevent vomiting, motion sickness pills for people containing dimenhydrinate (1 milligram per pound {2.2 mg/kg} of body weight), given about thirty minutes before car rides, will help some dogs.
Example of motion sickness pill that can be given is Dramamine. Give medium to large dogs 25 to 50 milligrams an hour before traveling. For small dogs give about 12.5 milligrams.
In other cases prescription drugs (certain tranquilizers) that act on the "nausea centers" in the brain must be used to control the problem. Ask your veterinarian about these drugs.
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NAILS CUT TOO SHORT-
If you are clipping your dogs nails, and you have gone to far and hit a vein, to stop the bleeding either take the cooking seasoing ALUM and out the powder on the tip of nail, the bleeding will stop. If no Alum take a bar of soap, espeically the one in your shower and place nail in soap as if to clog the flow and the bleeding will stop almost immediatly. A vet once told me if you have no blood stopper around, that flour or baby powder will work on nails.
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NOSE
If your dog has a minor skin irritation on his or her nose that is caused by the dog using it's nose to dig or poking it threw a fence then you should correct such irritations by observing and modifying your dog's behavior.
Thickening of the nose skin is common as a dog ages. You can help keep the animals nose soft by applying petroleum jelly or emollient creams made for humans.
Any condition (unaccompanied by other signs) that does not improved within one week should be seen by a veterinarian.
Conditions involving the inside of the nose should not be treated at home.
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Pet Urine on Carpet:
First, blot up what you can with paper towels. Then, with warm, soapy water and a clean cloth, blot the area clean; rinse with clean water; blot until dry. Next, combine 1/3 cup white vinegar with 2/3 cup water and dab it on stain; rinse with clean water; blot until dry. Once the area is totally dry (at least 24 hours), sprinkle entire carpet with baking soda or rug deodorizer; vacuum after a few hours.
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Porcupine Quill Removal
The important thing to remember is you must remove the entire quill.
Grasp the quill with a pair of pliers near the point where it disappears into the skin; then, with a quick tug, pull it out.
Apply a topical antiseptic like Betadine Solution after removing a quill.
It you do not remove all of the quill you will need a veterinarian's help.
Do not ignore small pieces of quill left in the skin as they can migrate long distances into bone or internal organs and cause infection.
If you find quills inside the mouth or throat-or if your pet has numerous quills in his/her skin--take him/her to a veterinarian right away.
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Puppy Diarrhea/Dogs with Soft Stool:
Plain canned pumpkin works well for puppies with diarrhea and adult dogs with soft stool. A few spoonfuls in their food will often stop it right away. The pumpkins adds fiber to the diet, therefore firming up the stools. It often works more completely and more quickly than Kaopectate� if your pet isn't ill from something else.
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Removing Burrs:
Remove burrs in your pet's coat as soon as possible. Allowing their fur to get wet makes it worse, so keep them dry. Most burrs can be removed with your fingers or tweezers. For the more difficult ones, soak the area in vegetable oil to help slide them out.
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Removing Hair From Ears
To pluck ear canal hair, grasp protruding hair with your fingers or a pair of tweezers (HEMOSTATS WORK BETTER) and give a quick jerk. Hair in the ear canal usually comes out easily, and the plucking process does not seem to be painful if done properly and if the ear canal is not inflamed. Be careful not to tug on the hair just outside the ear canal--that hurts. Hair not easily removed by plucking may need to be clipped out.
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RINGWORM
Many uncomplicated cases of ringworm heal spontaneously in one to three months, so isolated infected areas may be cleared with simple home care.
The affected area should be clipped free of hair and washed daily in a povidone-iodine (such as Betadine) or chlorhesidine shampoo (Nolvasan) followed by an application of an antifungal cream or drops.
Products containing 2% miconazole nitrate or 1% clotrimazole can be purchased in a drugstore without a prescription.
A 0.5% solution of chlorine bleach applied once a day can be effective on localized lesions.
Vacuum your house often if your pet lives inside.
Ringworm cases that do not respond, that have a secondary bacterial infection, or that involve the toenails or several body areas should be treated by a veterinarian.
"Lotrimin Liquid Spray" worked for me on a dog that had hair loss from a fungus....also kills ringworm on a dog or human.
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Removing Hair From Ears
To pluck ear canal hair, grasp protruding hair with your fingers or a pair of tweezers (HEMOSTATS WORK BETTER) and give a quick jerk. Hair in the ear canal usually comes out easily, and the plucking process does not seem to be painful if done properly and if the ear canal is not inflamed. Be careful not to tug on the hair just outside the ear canal--that hurts. Hair not easily removed by plucking may need to be clipped out.
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SAFE PEST CONTROL
- Do you have trouble with ants but your afraid to use poison because of your pets. THEN DONT! Try putting out some cornmeal instead. They will take it to their nest to eat. Little do they know they can't digest it and will kill out their whole colony. Leaving your pet safe and your home chemical free.
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Seizures
Dogs don't swallow their tongues, so don't put your hand in their mouth. Move furniture out of the way and try to keep the area as dark as possible. Gentle talking and stroking may help to shorten the length of the seizure. If the seizure lasts more than 10 minutes, take your pet to the vet immediately. If this is the first time your pet is having a seizure, take him to the vet for assessment.
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SKUNK SMELL
1. 1 quart of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, 1 teaspoon of Liquid Dish Soap (Dawn is recommended). Mix it and put it in a spray bottle. Spray your dogs with the mixture while scrubbing him with a sponge saturated with solution. Rinse with tap water.
2. You can use shampoo and water for a bath, then follow with a milk or tomato juice soak. Pour the milk or juice on straight; let it sit for about ten minutes, then rinse. If you don't have milk or juice you can also follow the bath with lemon or lime juice mixed with equal parts of water or one to two teaspoonfuls of household ammonia in one quart of water.
3. Try Massengill medicated douche.
For small to medium dogs-mix two oz. of Massengill with one gallon water. For large dogs, double the amount.
Pour the mixture over your dog until it soaks in and leave it on for 15 mins. Rinse.
4. You can douse your dog 1 1/4 cup of vanilla extract mixed in a gallon of water. Let it soak for 10 mins and then shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
5. There is also a commercial product that you can buy at your local pet supply store or grocery store.
MY DAD USED TO TELL ME THAT TOMATO JUICE POURED OVER A DOG WOULD WORK
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TAR & PAINT
Tar and paint are difficult substances to remove. NEVER use gasoline, turpentine, kerosene, paint remover, or other similiar substances to in an attempt to remove them.
Cut out small accumulations of tar or paint. Large amounts of tar can be removed without cutting by applying vegetable oil, mineral oil, or ointments containing the surface-active agent polyoxethylene sorbitan for 24 hours then wash with a mild detergent and water.
If the dog's feet have tar on them, apply ointment or oil, then cover with a bandage
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PREVENTION OF TEAR STAINS
Clip the stained hair under the eye and every day or every other day just apply a small amount of vaseline to the area (or KY jelley) so that the tears roll off.
You can also buy a product called diamond eyes and apply it to the eyes once a day to keep the tearing and staining to a minimum.
Hydrogen Peroxide will remove tear stains. Sometimes when dogs drink out of waterbowls, the hair around their muzzle gets wet...therefore the damp hair gets bacteria causing tear stains. A water bottle can be attached to a cage to prevent this.
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Reduce Anal Sac Problems:
Stop feeding your pet table scraps. The fatty foods soften the stool, making the fluid more likely to build up.
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REMOVING A TICK
The easiest way to remove ticks is usually by hand. Using forceps, tweezers, or your thumb and first finger protected by a tissue, grasp the tick as close as possible to where its mouthparts insert into the dog's skin.
Then exert a firm but gentle, constant pull. If you've pulled just right and gotten the tick at the optimum time after attachment, the entire tick will detach.
If the mouthparts are left embedded, don't worry. The tick never grows back, the mouthparts fall out naturally, and only rarely does a tick bite become infected.
If you feel you must apply something to the tick, use a small amount of concentrated flea or tick dip or alcohol, and apply it only to the tick, not to the surrounding skin or hair.
Wait a few minutes and then pull the tick off.
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TAKING A TEMPERATURE
Take the dog's temperature with a standard rectal thermometer, lubricated with vaseline. After the thermometer is shaken down it is placed gently into the dog's rectum until only one inch remains visible.
Leave it there for one minute.
A normal temperature for a dog is between 100 and 102.5 degrees. If it is above that the dog has a fever, if it is below that the dog is hypothermic and needs to be kept warmer.
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Urinary Infections:
The common human remedy of cranberry, orange, and other citrus juices also work for pets in boosting the acidity of the urine and decreasing the amount of bacteria. A chewable vitamin C tablet a day will reduce the acidity to prevent further infections.
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Vomiting and Home
Treatment of Vomiting
Vomiting is the forcible expulsion of stomach and/or intestinal contents through the mouth. Vomiting occurs commonly in dogs. It seems to be caused most often by irritation of the stomach, called simple gastritis.
Gastritis is usually caused by the ingestion of an irritant substance--for example, decomposed food, grass, aluminum foil, paper, or bones. The dog often first vomits food or another irritant material and later vomits clear or yellow fluid.
Dogs with gastric irritation may seek grass to eat, but grass eating is often an "enjoyable pastime" for dogs and not a sign of illness. They may or may not be interested in their normal food.
If your dog vomits once or twice, has no fever or obvious abdominal pain, and is no more than slightly depressed (inactive), you can probably treat the vomiting at home.
It is time to seek veterinary help for vomiting if your dog vomits more than a few times, if the vomitus is ejected extremely forcefully, if there is blood in the vomitus or obvious abdominal pain, or if your dog seems particularly depressed or weak, has a fever, or retches unproductively, do not attempt to treat the condition at home.
Never give a dog vomiting blood ...oral medications.
Do not feed your dog for twelve to twenty-four hours following vomiting. At the end of twelve hours , you can offer a very small amount of soft, bland food such as cooked rice and skinless chicken breast, pasta, or potatoes mixed with low-fat cottage cheese (9-to1 ratio). If your dog keeps this small meal down for about four hours, another small meal can be offered, then another about four hours later. If no further vomiting occurs, the next day's meals can be normal-sized portion of bland food and the following day you can return your dog to a regular diet. Water should be offered only in small amounts but frequently in order to combat the tendency to dehydrate that accompanies vomiting. Large amount of food or water distend the already irritated stomach and usually cause vomiting to recur. An easy way to have water available in small portions is to place ice cubes in the water bowl and allow the dog to drink the liquid that accumulates as the cubes melt.
Withholding food for 24 hours from very small dogs or puppies may lead to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and is dangerous. In this instance, withhold food for several hours and administer small amounts of honey, Karo syrup, or sugar water frequently during the period of food withdrawal.
Even simple gastritis cannot always be treated successfully without the help of a veterinarian, and there are many other serious causes of vomiting, among them intestinal foreign bodies, bowel or stomach torsion (twisting) inflammation of the pancreas, kidney failure, and even certain forms of epilepsy.
Some dogs, particularly young dogs used to eating several times a day, vomit during the hours preceding their regular meal. The vomitus usually looks like a frothy white or yellow fluid and is usually present in small amounts. This type of vomiting may be due to excess gastric acidity and can be controlled in several ways:
1. Feed two meal a day (morning and evening).
2. Allow free-choice feeding.
3. Administer an antacid before the time when vomiting usually occurs. This last method is the least desirable since prolonged use may stimulate even greater secretion of gastric secretions.
Another not-very-serious type of vomiting experienced frequently by young dogs occurs following meals, usually those who gobble their food, overeat, and/or exercise excessively immediately following eating. If your dog is an after-meal vomiter, you can try the following:
1. If your dog normally eats with other animals, feed the one who vomits by him- or herself. Competition encourages food gulping.
2. Feed smaller meals more frequently.
3. Enforce rest after meals.
4. Try a food that has to be chewed before swallowing (e.g., large-size kibbles).
Medications
Doses vary widely from pet to pet, however, so be sure to ask your vet for advice.
1. Pepto-Bismol can be given. Give one teaspoon per 20 pounds of weight every four to six hours.
2. Kaopectate is helpful for digestive troubles. Give one teaspoon of Kaopectate for each ten pounds of weight every four hours.
3. Di Gel Liquid can be given up to 4 tbs. every 8 hours.
4. Maalox can be given up to 4 tbs. every 8 hours.
5. Antacid liquids for humans containing aluminum and/or magnesium hydroxide may help soothe the irritated stomach lining; however, the most important part of treatment is fasting! (Dose aluminum hydroxide antacids to provide 10mg per pound [22 mg/kg] of body weight every six hours.) If vomiting is present with diarrhea, drugs containing bismuth subsalicylate are best.
Do not give any preparations containing aspirin when your pet has upset stomach.
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HOW TO INDUCE VOMITING
If you know that your dog has ingested medications or drugs that are not caustic, (a strong acid or alkali, kerosene), you should induce vomiting quickly.
To induce vomiting give the dog one to two teaspoons of Ipecac or hydrogen peroxide (1:1 with water) orally with a spoon.
Then give milk mixed with a raw egg at 1/4 cup per 10 lbs. of body weight.
Do not induce vomiting if your dog is already losing consciousness or is beginning to convulse.
If veterinarian care is immediately available, do not waste your time on home treatments.
You should have the dog seen by your veterinarian to make sure no drug remains in the dog's body and to check for any side effects.
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Urinary Infections:
The common human remedy of cranberry, orange, and other citrus juices also work for pets in boosting the acidity of the urine and decreasing the amount of bacteria. A chewable vitamin C tablet a day will reduce the acidity to prevent further infections.
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WOUNDS
Flush a mild disinfectant into the wound under light pressure. You can use an eyedropper, turkey baster, bulb syringe, or a syringe.
You can use a disinfectant such as 0.001$-1% povidone-iodine (the more dilute solutions are less damaging to healthy tissue), 0.05% chlorhexidine, and 0.125%-0.5% sodium hypochlorite (one fourth to full strenght Dakin's solution), which can be made by diluting household bleach 1:10 to 1:40 with water.
You could also use hydrogen peroxide and the concentrate should only be about 3%.
Or you could use a Boric Acid solution. It comes in powdered form, and you can mix it up as per the directions on the bottle with distilled water.
Do not apply any oil-based antibiotic ointments or those containing the local anesthetic benzocaine. This may interfere with healing.
If possible, antibiotics should be administered by a veterinarian within 24 hours of injury
Examine daily for infection. If the wound becomes infected take your dog to your veterinarian.
Flowers Of Sulfur is good if you can't get to a vet at once for a cut on a dog ( and its not too severe ) ..just fill the cut with this powder...works wonders!
I recommend Jeffers for your pets needs:
The following items are suggested BEFORE you take your new pet home ...and can be purchased thru Jeffers
Call ( 1-800-Jeffers ) and ask for the "Free" Pet Catalog.
DK-CP Classic Large Kennel 26" x 18 1/2" x 16"
I housebreak my dogs in a Carrier. I only use this for night-time ( when pups are too small to sleep on my bed, without falling off ), I take them out first thing every morning and change their bedding ). I use this size because I don't want my babies to feel "cramped"....when pup is very small I put a large plastic container in the back of the carrier to take up space...when pup grows, I remove it.
G6-AD Wire Crate, 42"L x 26 1/2"W x 30"H (Black)
- EXTRA HEAVY-DUTY DOOR & front
- Special HEAVIER-GAUGE WIRE latch on door features dual securing points
- ONE-HANDED OPERATION
- Drop Pin Corners for easy setup
- Rust & corrosion resistant
- Black Epoxy with plastic pan
This is a must for my family. When I have to leave home ( Dr. appts., grocery shopping, etc. ) I don't want to leave any of my girls outside in the cold (or rainy) weather and one of my girls ( Demi ) is terrified of thunder/lightening...this gives them room to move around in and yet keep them out of dangerous situations when we can't be there to watch them. This is similar to the "Playpen" your mom may have put you in when she had work to do, and you were into everything...this is a playpen for pups. I put a wire floor in mine, so that if pup has NOT had all vaccines I put them in this first thing every morning, instead of putting them on the ground. Pup can do her business in here and the feces will fall thru the floor onto a pan with newspaper in it. This is also great on those cold rainy, freezing days when it's just to messy to go outside.
Wee-Wee Pads...Puppy Housebreaking Pads
Heavy-duty, super-absorbent, scientifically treated pads that attract your puppy when nature calls. Plastic lined. Can be used outside after the inside training is completed. Each disposable pad is 23" x 24".
39-W6 Wee-Wee Pads, 100 pads
Frontline� Spray for dogs, cats, puppies & kittens
(Merial) Contains Fipronil for a fast & effective way of elimination large flea & tick infestation already on your pet. Kills 98-100% of adult fleas within 24 hrs, ticks within 48 hrs & control lice infestations within 48 hrs. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange in dogs. Can be used on kittens & puppies from 8 wks of age. Provides up to 6 wks protection for cats & up to 4 wks protection for dogs.
WV-FA Frontline� Spray, 250 ml
WV-FB Frontline� Spray, 500 ml
We find that the Frontline SPRAY works better than the drops or flea/tick collars.
This product REALLY works for our babies!
PLEASE have your pet micro chipped...and also tattooed. Never have the tattoo put in the ear. A thief that gets your baby can cut the ear off to get rid of the tattoo and sell your baby...always get the tattoo on the stomach or inner thigh. Some animal shelters cannot afford the microchip scanner which is around $250.00 because they rely solely on donations (and cannot afford it).
Why are microchips important for stolen dogs?: A microchip may be the only way that you can identify your stolen dog. If your dog is stolen and located, the police will need a way to positively identify the dog as your dog - a microchip is a guaranteed way to do this. Please have your pet micro chipped!
Information on Bunchers:
- A Buncher is a person, licensed by the USDA, who can gather dogs from "random sources". This includes "free to good home" ads in the papers, and community bulletin boards. They take dogs from shelters, and they have been known to gather from the streets and even from yards.
- Bunchers have been known to steal dogs from vehicles, parked outside the corner grocery store, while the owner shops. It can happen within minutes!
- Bunchers then sell your dog to Class B dealers, who then sell your dog to research facilities, other dealers, pet shops, at auctions, and to breeders (including puppy mills). They often will not try to use dogs that are tattooed, but may not discover your dog is tattooed right away. They have also been known to cut a tattooed ear off of a dog in order to sell the dog. It is illegal for research facilities to use dogs that are tattooed, so you MUST contact any and all research facilities in your state, and even surrounding states....if your dog is missing.
This Page Last Updated:
Saturday January 4, 2025
This page is only updated whenever i add health info